Barolo or Barbaresco?



Piedmont - Italy.

The Langhe region of Piedmont in Italy, is the home of both Barolo and Barbaresco wines.
To clear a misconception , as such,  Barolo is a beautiful small hamlet in the heart of Piedmont, and Barbarseco is a comune (municipality) in the province of Cuneo in the Langhe region of Piedmont.
The Barbarseco zone lies to the northeast of the city of Alba, whereas the Barolo zone lies a bit further away from Alba to the southwest.

Barbarescco and Barolo wines are two classic wines of the highest quality, both of which are classified DOCG and are produced from 100% Nebbiolo grapes under very strict rules.

Nebbiolo grape cluster.

Although grown in various regions in Italy outside these zones, as well as in various parts of the world, Nebbiolo produce wines that rarely if ever attain the special attributes and intensity of Barolo or Barbaresco. Nebbiolo is a difficult grape variety to grow successfully for the production of wine, outside its established terroir of the Langhe. It flowers early and ripens late, which mean that climatic conditions must be perfect for it. Cool weather throughout the growing season, such as that experienced in 2004, which has been one of the very best vintage years in recent years for these two wines,  allow for excellent ripening and ideal conditions to preserve the grapes natural acidity. Frost in Spring, or cold and wet weather at harvest time creates major problems for this grape variety as well as does hot weather conditions and excessive temperatures over 25 deg. C. in Summer.

The attributes of these two wines include spectacular flavour and aroma nuances, a very long and persisting palate, great longevity as the wines are best consumed between 10 and 30 years of age in good vintages, and an affinity for good food -primarily braised beef; roast beef and lamb; game and game birds; white truffles; porcini mushrooms and strong cheese such as Fontina, Boschetto al Tartufo, Grana Padano, Parmigiano-Regiano and Pecorino-Romano.

Barolo

Both Barolo and Barbaresco wines, although they might be released for sale between three and five years from the vintage year, are not ready to be drunk for at least ten years (always from the vintage year) due to their strong tannins, complexity and body. Both these wines need extensive airing and breathing prior to serving, in order to mellow and evolve their best attributes. Decanting is also recommended as well as the correct wine glasses.

Barbaresco

Barbaresco was essentially created as a "place-of-origin" wine name in the later part of the 19th century, when producers of Barolo refused to extend their name to include the grapes from what is now known as the Barbaresco zone. So far as production is concerned there are about one-third Barbaresco as much as Barolo, as the vineyard culitivation area of the Barolo zone is much larger than that of Barbaresco. The main towns of Barolo through which the Nebbiolo is cultivated and the wine made are: Bardo, Castiglione, Falletto, Diano, d'Alba, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte d'Alba. Novello, Roddi and Serralunga d'Alba.
Serralunga d'Alba produce the most fuller and concentrated Barolos that are less approachable in youth, whereas on the other hand the wines of La Morra are the more delicate and supple. The others fall somewhere in between but they are all superlative.  In Barbarseco the famous towns are Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso. The soils are more like those of la Morra than those of Serralunga, but nevertheless some top producers have produced Barbarescos that are at par with those of Barolo in power and longevity. The producer is therefore an important factor to considfer when chosing a Barolo as against a Barbaresco.

Barbaresco

There are certain distinctions between the two wines, but in a blind tasting it is difficult to tell due to the different subzones and terroir of the Langhe regions which diminsihes these distinctions at the vineyard. Barolos are normally released after three years from vintage and Barbarescos a minimum of 2 years. For a Riserva Barolo, the aging time is 5 years from vintage, and for a Riserva Barbaresco the requirement is 4 years. Both will not have matured fully before at least 10 years from the vintage date. As one can see these are highly complex wines, but once mature they are exceptional. Barolo has been dubbed as the "King of Wines"many years ago and this title has stuck even to this day, thus giving this wine a worldwide regal identity among premium and prestigious wines. But then again, if Barbaresco is not the king, it is certainly the crown prince. In general  a Barbaresco is more approachable than Barolo in youth, as the tannins of the former are lighter, and can reach their peak within ten years, whereas Barolos need more.

Barolo.

Good recent, vintage years for Barolo and Barbaresco are 2006, 2004,  2001, 1998 and 1996.

Top producers are:
For both Barolo and Barbaresco: BRUNO GIACOSA .

Barolo: Domenico Clerico; Giacomo Borgogno; Luciano Sandrone; Paolo Scavino.

Barbaresco: Ceretto; Pio Cesare; Angelo Gaja; Fontanabianca, and others.

Both Barolo and Barbaresco offer a thrilling experience in premium wine like no other. They are unique not only as wines but also as they come from the only region on earth where Nebbiolo can be cultivated and grown successfully and to perfection.

So, which grape variety are you exactly drinking?

How many grape varieties can you
name in these wines?
Wines shown here come from my private
collection which have all been taste-tested.

Yes, that is the question. How many wine consumers actually know, what grape variety or varieties, are contained in a wine that they have purchased from a wine shop, or ordered in a restaurant when only the appellation of the wine is printed on the label? A survey which has been conducted among friends and acquaintances as well as among various headwaiters and even restaurant owners, have indicated clearly that very few are familiar with this very important aspect of wine knowledge.

Wine corks.

When one orders a wine produced in most of the New World wine producing countries, one, in all probability will know from the label what grape variety or varieties have been utilised to produce that particular wine from.

Grape variety indicated.

For example when grape varieties such as: Cabernet Sauvignon; Merlot; Syrah/Shiraz; Grenache; Malbec; Carmenere; Sangiovese; Aglianico; Nero D'Avola; Pinotage; Pinot Noir or Pinot Nero; etc are mentioned on the label, then the wine would be a red wine which was produced from that grape variety or at least contains not less than 85% of that grape variety.

Similarly if it states on the label grape names such as Chardonnay; Semillon; Sauvignon Blanc; Fiano di Avellino; Greco di Tufo; Falanghina; Chenin Blanc; Riesling;  Gewurztraminer; Viogner; etc, then the wine would be a varietal produced from these grapes.

What is the wine varietal?
Or grape variety?

But, and here is where the question arises, what if the wine is listed on the wine list, or the label shows only the appellation, such as Chateauneuf du Pape; Cote Rotie; Hermitage; Meritage; Barolo; Barbaresco; Chianti; Gavi di Gavi; Amarone; Valpolicella; Sancerre'; Chablis; Pouilly-Fuisse; a Bordeax appellation such as Appellation Margaux Controllee; or a Burgandy appellation such as Domaine Prieur Brunet; Taurasi; Brunello di Montalcino or Vino Nobile di Monetpulciano? There are many others of course, as one is never sure with a Vin de Pays (now IGT-Indication Geographique Protegee'), from France unless one knows the winemaker and with 230,000 French winemakers, in various regions, this is an insurmountable task. For example, there are about 10,000 winemakers or chateaux in Bordeaux obtaining grapes from some 13,000 growers.  So let's stick and concentrate on the known appellations, for which I'll try to give you some concise information with respect to the grape varieties that are permitted, or used, to make such wines:

Bordeaux appellation.

What is a Bordeaux wine? A Bordeaux Blend? A Premiere Cru or a Grand Cru? A lot of information has already been given in the feature on French appellations earlier, so we will not delve much further, except for the grape varietals.

Red Bordeaux, which can come under various appellations, AOP- Appellation D'Origine Protegee (formerly AOC), IGP - Indication Geographique Protegee' formerly Vin de Pays, etc.,  is in most cases a blend of various varietals. The permitted grape varieties are: Cabernet Sauvignon 70%; Cabernet Franc 15%; Merlot 15%.  Petit Verdot may be added about 5% whilst reducing the Cabernet Franc and th Merlot. Malbec and Carmenere are also permitted to be used in the blend but are not frequently used in modern blends.

White Bordeaux which is known as Sauternes is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc 20% and Semillon 75% and Muscadelle 5%.. Other grape varieties such as Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Merlot Blanc, Ondence and Mauzac may also be used in small quantities in the blend for white Bordeaux.

Saint-Emilion

St.Emilion and Pomerol: 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sancerre' - comes from the Loire Valley and is produced from Sauvignon Blanc, evolving into one of the finest white wines in the world.

Chablis and Pouilly-Fuisse.

Burgandy: The predominant grapes of Burgandy are Pinot Noir for the red wines and Chardonnay for the white wines.
Chablis and  Pouilly-Fuisse are two of Burgandy's famous white wines which are produced from the Chardonnay grape.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape: This is the mother of all blends as not less than 13 (sometimes 14) different grape varieties are permitted to be used in the blend of the final wine. These red grape varieties are: Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre and Cinsault which comprise the bulk of the blend, to which may also be added Counoise, Muscardin, Terret Noir and Vaccarese. The white grape varieties which may also be used the blend are: Grenache blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Picardan, Rousanne and Picpoul. In recent vintages, the blend has been comprised from the first four varieties, and nearly no white grape varieties are used for the red wine blend. There is, but, a limited production of white Chateauneuf-du-Pape made from the white varieties.

Hermitage -  is produced in the Northern Rhone region of France and is produced from the Syrah grape variety.  Small quantities of white Hermitage are produced from Rousanne and Marsanne grapes.

Meritage - Californian produced imitation of red Bordeaux and must be produced from two or more of these grape varieties:  Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Carmenere or Petit Verdot.

Barbaresco.

Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara and Ghemme - Four of the finest Italian red wines produced in the region of Piedmont. These wines are produced from 100% Nebbiolo grapes.

Chianti Classico and Riserva.

Chianti- Chianti Classico (Gallo Nero), Chianti Riserva -  is produced in the Chianti region of Tuscany, Italy. These three categories which are all classified DOCG, have different viticulture and production rules, and may be produced from 100% Sangiovese grapes or a blend comprised of  not less than 75% Sangiovese, up to 10% Canaiolo and up to 20% of any other approved grape including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah. For the best Chianti choices always go for Chianti Classico (with the black rooster emblem -gallo nero) or a Riserva from renowned producers.

Vino Nobile de Montepulciano.

Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano are also products of the Province of Tuscany, produced in the regions as implied in the name, viz Montalcino and Montepulciano respectively. These wines are produced from 100% Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Prugnolo Gentile varieties. Vino Nobile de Montepulciano can also be comprised of a blend of a minimum of 70% Prugnolo Gentile grapes, 10 to 20% Canaiolo Nero and small amount of Mammolo.

Amarone, Ripassa, Valpolicella
Classico Superiore.

Amarone della Valpolicella; Ripasso della Valpolicella; Valpolicella Superiore.
These wines are produced in the Veneto region of Italy and are produced from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grape varieties. Rich red wines with class.
Ordinary, cheap Valpolicella found in supermarkets has nothing to do with these superior brands and cannot be compared for quality.

Gavi di Gavi.

Gavi di Gavi or Cortese di Gavi is one of Italy's major white wines which is produced in a restricted area of the Province of Alessandria in Piedmont. If made within the commune of Gavi it can be labeled as Gavi di Gavi. Otherwise it is labeled just Gavi or Cortese di Gavi. The grape variety from which this wine is produced is the Cortese.




Soave Superiore DOCG - white wine, hproduced in the Veneto region mainly around Verona. Grape variety is the Garganega.

Orvieto Classico DOC - produced in Umbria around the Commune of Orvieto from where it gets its name. Grape blend varieties used primarily for the best wines are: Grechetto 30% or more; and Trebiano 50% or more; but blends of Malvasia Drupeggio, Verdello and Canaiolo Bianco together with the first two may be used.

Taurasi Riserva.

Taurasi - This is another DOCG Italian appellation, which is produced in Campania, Italy, from the Aglianico grape variety.

Nero D'Avola Vrucara.

Super-Tuscan; Brunello;
Chianti Classico; Vin Santo.
Appellation label.

Varietal Selection
Grape indicated by name.

The International Wine Appellations and Classifications.

A Famous French Appellation.

In the previous feature I highlighted, in concise form,  the changes to the French wine appellations which came in force in 2009. France has since 1855 been the world's leader in controlling the quality of the country's wine production, so how do the other wine producers, Old World, as well as New World countries compare or try to emulate France in this sphere?

The following is a description of the appellations of several countries which I'm sure will be of interest to every wine afficionado:

France has been covered in the previous feature, so we will not dwell on it any further here.

QbA Classification Germany.

GERMANY -  In Germany quality is graded and classified according to the ripeness of the grapes at harvest and appellations are issued by the German authorities as follows, (lowest grade first):

Deutscher Tafelwein - Medium-dry Table wine.

Deutsher Tafelwein Landwein - Dry or semi-dry regional country wine.

Quatlitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete QbA - quality wines from one of the thirteen recognised and designated, grape growing, quality regions of Germany, which are: Ahr, Mittelrhein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Rheingau, Nahe, Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Franken, Hessiche Bergstrasse, Wuttemberg, Baden, Saale/Unstrut and Sachsen. To be classified QbA these wines must conform with regional appellation laws and are rigorously tested for compliance and issued with an AP number. These laws ensure that the wine is from one specific wine-growing region, is mde from approved grape varieties which have reached sufficient ripeness for quality wine. As the sugar in most grapes in these regions is low, chaptalization (the addig of sugar during fermentation) is allowed to raise the alcohol level to the required level..

Qualitatswein mit Pradikat QmP - this is issued to the finest quality wines that have special attributes representing graduating ripeness levels which are in ascending order: kabinette, Spatlese'. Ausles, Beerenauslese (BA), Eiswein, Trockenbeerernauslese (TBA).

Two new classifications of dry wines, Classic and Selection, were established in 2000. Winemakers can produce wines under these classifications in all the thirteen wine-grape growing regions of Germany, provided the wines are above average in quality, harmoniously dry in taste, and made fom a traditional German grape variety - Riesling, Silvaner, Rivaner, Burgunder varieties.

AUSTRIA - operates the same system as Germany with an extra classification known as Ausbruch for rich, sweet wines.

LIP - Penfolds Australia.

AUSTRALIA - In 1990 Australia introduced a programme to promote the integrity of the information that is stated on the label. This programme is called Label Integrity Programme LIP. Information on the label have to denote vintage, grape variety and geographical indication. Those wineries registered in this programme are continuosly monitored by LIP inspectors who would dictate and issue the use of the classification under these conditions: If the geographical and wine varietal are indicated on the label, the grape variety (from which the wine is made) should be at least 85% of that particular grape, and the grape quantity used must be at least 85% sourced and grown in the region indicated.  With regard to the vintage year, also 85% at least, of the grape variety used, must have been harvested in the vintage year indicated.
The back label, front, neck and cap have equal status under Australian wine law, so information may appear on either the front or the back label. The volume of the bottle must appear on the front label.

As such this programme does not in anyway guarantee or stipulate quality requirements leading to, or of, the finished product, as this is left to individual winemakers to decide upon.

Wine of Origin South Africa.

SOUTH AFRICA -  The quality designation for South African wine is Wine of Origin, indicating the name of the region. If a vintage year is printed on the label, the wine must be produced from at least 75% of grapes harvested in the year labeled; If a grape variety is mentioned it must also be produced from at least 75% of grapes of that varietal. The Wine of Origin designation appears as a seal on the side of the neck of the bottle, and it certifies that any information given on the label relating to vintage, origin or grape variety is correct, but as in the case of Australia is not necessarily an indication of quality.

DOC Italian Label.

ITALY - Italian wine laws were commenced in 1963 with the introduction of the DOC Denominazione di Origine Controllata. In 1980 the DOCG Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita was introduced and awarded to selected regions which were producing wines of exceptional quality and renown.

The Chianti Classico Seal.

One has to note here, that the word "Garantita" in the DOCG classification, might seem to imply that the quality of the wine is guaranteed. It is not. The flaw in this system is the fact that these denominations are applied to entire regions in which the greatest wine in that region and the most ordinary and low quality get to say they are DOCG. For example all wines under the Chianti label are DOCG's but one can find superlative Chianti (Riserva, Classico and even just Chianti), but then again one can buy a bottle of the most plebeian Chianti in a supermarket for just Eur2.80 which come with the DOCG label.

Super-Tuscan IGT.

In 1992, a third classification, that known as IGT or Indicazione Geografica Tipica was created. Although this classification is supposed to be at the lower base of the Italian classification pyramid, one can find some great wines under this category, which although they do not conform to the DOC or DOCG rules, one can find some of Italy's greatest wines; Tignanello, Sassicaia, Solaia are three of the most well known, but there are various other "Super Tuscan" IGT wines that is a privilege to own and drink.
There are at present 41 regions which hold the DOCG classification, 350 regions hold the DOC classification, and some 130 whose wines are classified under the IGT system.
Under each and every classification, wine quality is the prerogative and choice of each individual winemaker.

To illustrate this I am producing here the DOCG classified, wine making, provinces of Italy, indicating the number of wines/regions within them that hold this classification:

Piedmont 12: Asti Spumanti; Barbera D'Asti; Barbera Del Monferrato Superiore; Barbaresco; Barolo; Brachetto d'Acqui; Gattinara; Gavi or Cortese di Gavi; Ghemme; Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore; Roero; Dolcetto di Ovada.

Tuscany 7: Brunello di Montalcino; Carnignano Rosso; Chianti (8 sub regions); Chianti Classico; Morrellino di Scansano; Vernaccia di San Gimignano; Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Veneto 4: Bardolino Superiore; Recioto di Gambellara; Recioto di Soave; Soave Superiore.

Abruzzo 1: Montepulciano d'Abr4uzzo Coline Teramane.
Campania 3: Fiano di Avellino; Greco di Tufp; Taurasi.

DOCG and IGT Wines from Campania.

Emilia-Romagna 1: Albana di Romagna.
Fruili-Venezia Giulia 2: Ramandolo; Colli Orientale del Friuli Picolit.
Lazio 1: Casanese del Piglio.

Lombardia 4: Franciacorta; Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico; Svorzato di Valtellina; Valtellina Superiore.

Marche 2: Conero; Vernaccia di Serrapetrona.
Sardinia 1: Vermentino di Gallura.
Sicilia 1: Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
Umbria 2: Montefalco Sagrantino; Torgiano Riserva.

California Wine Label -AVA

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA - The American Viticulture Area AVA is the American version of the French AOC system. The word "Appellation" or "classification" will not appear anywhere on the bottle. There will be the name of the region of grape harvest and production, for example: California (State) or Sonoma or Napa Valley, or maybe something more specific. If the region or viticulure area is on the label, then 85% of the grapes in that wine must have come from that area. A vineyard designated wine must contain not less than 95% of the grapes harvested from that vineyard. Vineyard names must be used together with the county or AVA names.
Wine laws in the USA are administered by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms

Rioja DOC wine label.

SPAIN - Certifies the origin of the grape in a wine under the classification Denominacion de Origen DO which were enacted in 1932 and revised in 1970 and is in a way similar to the French AOC now AOP laws. These laws define and protect wines from specific geographic areas.. This classification is administered by the Instituto Nacional de Denominaciones de Origen INDO, under the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture. This system administers a broad range of agricultural products ranging from wine, olive oil cured hams and cheeses.
There are fiftyfour DO's or officially recognized and geagraphically defined wine regions in Spain. Rioja has a special classification of Denominacion de Origen Calificada DOC (Qualified Denomination of Origin)

DOK and DOKS wines of Malta.

MALTA - had been toying and preparing legislation to control the production of wine since 2001, but eventually these laws were enacted and came into being in 2007, through LEGAL NOTICE 416 of 2007, amended by Legal Notice 168 of 2011. The DOK Wines Production Protocols (SL436.07). Subsidiary Legislation 436.07 was passed in 2007 and the D.O.K. WINES PRODUCTION PROTOCOLS REGULATIONS came into being on the 1st of May, of that year.
Wine production quality in Malta took a gigantic leap forward through these regulations, which control everything in winemaking from the vineyard to the bottle.
The classifications of note are the DOK Denominazzjoni Originali Kontrollata;
DOK-S Denominazzjoini Originali Kontrollata-Superjuri (the S denotes a higher alcohol content over 12%), and the IGT Indikazzjoni Geografica Tipika.
As with all other appellations and classifications of all other countries, final wine quality rests on the winemakers' style and production methods, but one is assured that grape varieties used in wine, bearing these classification notation on the label, are sourced from approved vineyards in Malta or Gozo, which have been cultivated and harvested by vignerons, under controlled conditions by the Ministry of Agriculture.
Wine analyses and tests, prior to approval and the award of the clasification labels are analysed and tested in laboratories in both Malta and in Siena, Italy.

It is also important to note that all winemaking countries produce vast quantities of VdT's Vino di Tavola, Table wines, or as they might be known in the USA jug wines. These wines do not normally fall under the appellation laws and are in the main inferior in quality.

It is also pertinent to note, that wine quality varies within the same country, or from country to country, for wines with the same classification, and a higher appellation does not guarantee that they are as a matter of fact, better than top class wines that are classified under a lower appellation.
E.G. several IGT classified Super Tuscans, or French super garage wines (Vins du garage) produced by garagistes , etc are amongst the best wines for quality in the world.

Tignanello IGT.

Grand Cru

Sassicaia IGT.

Changes to the French wine appellations:

French wines have always been divided into three main categories or appellations.
These were:

1. The lowest grade - Vin de Table (Table wine);
2. The middle grade - Vin de Pays;
and
3. The top appellation of Appellation d'Origine Controlee AOC.

In August of 2009 these appellations ceased to exist as they have been replaced by the following designations:



1. VIN DE FRANCE.

The former  "Vin de Table" category has been replaced by the appellation "Vin de France".
The requirements for this appellation do not require the specific area of the grape harvest and grape variety name to be indicated but since August 2009, there is a possibility to mention the varietal names on the label.
Yields are limited and minimum and maximum alcohol content are specified.

2. IGP - INDICATION GEOGRAPHIQUE PROTEGEE.

The former "Vin de Pays" in now indicated as IGP or Indication Geographique Protegee.
The new terminolgy indicate better the definition of this category in that of "wine of the region", which is now at a more specific geographical level.
In this appellation a specific region of the grape harvest must be indicated.
Specified and permitted varietals..
Specified vineyard limited yields - 50 to 90 hectolitres per hectare.
Minimum and maximum alcohol control.
Final approval from the French authorities after analysis of the wine quality (includig a tasting test), must be obtained before the wine can be released under this appellation.
This category offer a range of wines that are of very good quality, easy drinking wines that also offer good value for money. This designation does not man that the wine is of a lesser quality thyan wines under the (AOC)  IGP designation. It may only mean that the winemaker has chosen not to abide by the rules of the higher appellation such as deciding to blend in a wine varietal produced from a grape that is not approved for the regional appellation.

The four regional IGP's (ex- Vin de Pays) are:

Val de Loire - covers the Loire Valley;
Comtes Rhodanians - covers the Rhone, Beaujolais, Savoie and Jura.
Comte Tolosan - covers the South West of France around Toulouse;
The Languedoc region which was formerly categorised as Vin de Pays d'Oc.

Each of these regional appellations have sub-appellations within them, thus continuing to complicate matters.

3. AOP - APPELLATION D'ORIGINE PROTEGEE.

The highest appellation of AOC Appellation d'Origine Controlee is now the AOP or Appellation d'Origine Protegee.
This appellation comes with very strict criterias.
Areas of grape growing are restricted to specific "terroir";
Specified and permitted grapes and limited vineyard yields - not more than 50 hectolitres per hectare.;
Vineyards are monitored by the authorities;
Approved winemaking methods - pruning types, harvesting techniques and vinification methods.
Strict final approval of the wine and vintage prior to the award of this appellation.
This is the highest French appellation, reserved for the most prestigious wines which carries with it the  most demanding requirements. As such, quality and price are as expected to be somewhat high.
The legal responsibility for administering appellations in France falls under the jurisdiction of INAO short for Institut National des Appellations d'Origine'.

There are currently over 300 French wines that are entitled to use the designation AOP (formerly AOC) on their label, and they come from all the leading winemaking regions of France.

The VDQS - Vins Delimite' de Qualite' Superieure -  category which was introduced in 1949, for quality wines that used to fall between the "Vin de Pays" and the higher AOC category, shall cease to exist after December, 2011. The last wines that can be labelled VDQS are those of the 2010 vintage. Existing VDQS areas will have until the end of this year to either qualify for full AOP status, or to become IGP category wines.

THE MEDOC CLASSIFICATION OF 1855.

French wine classification historically entered a new era in 1855 in Bordeaux, when Napolean III insisted that the best Bordeaux wine become classified to sort out the top wines from the mediocre. Thus the 1855 classification came into being and the Bordeaux wine making regions were divided into CRUS categorised with the top wines being given Premier Cru (First Growth status) with declining categories classified down to Cinquiemes Crus (Fifth Growth). There were 61 chateaux classified (from First Growth to Fifth Growth), under this classifiaction with hundreds of winemakers below fifth growth quality not being classified at all.

In the first Classification, only four Chateaux or vineyards from the communes of Pauillac, Margaux and Pessac, were clasified as Premier Crus.
These were:
Chateaux Lafite-Rothschild - Pauillac;
Chateaux Latour -                   Pauillac;
Chateaux Margaux -               Margaux;
Chateaux Haut-Brion -           Pessac, Graves.
In 1973, after years of wrangling with the INAO, Chateaux Moutin-Rothschild of Pauillac was elevated from Second Growth - Deuxiems Cru to Premier Cru, in the first and last re-classification of any chateau under this very strict classification.

Chateau D' Yquem was given the classification of Premier Cru Superieure in the original 1855 Classifications.

Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Ausone, of St. Emilion, were elevated to, and classified as,  Premier Crand Cru Classe' in 1955 (re-classified in 1996).

POMEROL was never classified although Chateau Petrus ranks with the top Premier Crus for excellence in quality and its high prices.

In the BURGUNDY classification the Grand Crus reign supreme, with the top red wines coming from the Cote' de Nuits and the white Grand Crus from the Cote' de Beaune.

Wines classified under these categories must show their superior classifications over and above the (AOC) now AOP - Appellation d'Origine Protegee on the wine label - for example: Joseph Drouhin-Recolte du Domaine: MUSIGNY GRAND CRU - Appelation Controllee.

In all of the above, we have not touched on the actual wines that come under the above categories and classification appellations, such as Hermitage, Chateauneuf du Pape, Chablis, Sancerre, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and the thousand and one other supreme French wines. The consumer, thus is at a loss on what grape variety or wine varietal he is drinking when faced with these labels as the grape variety is not normally listed on the label. To know what is in the bottle,the consumer must have a knowledge of each region as well as of each winemaker to know which grape varieties are permissible to produce these wines. With well over 230,000 winemakers and vineyards in France, this is no mean feat, and thus is not an easy task. The consumer deserves better, easy accessible information from the wine label, it is doubtful but lets hope that the new classification appellations will go some way to achieve this.

In a future feature, I shall endeavour to give you, the consumer, the grape varieties that are allowed in the production of some of the better known top French wines.

A Taste of Italy: UMBRIA Re-Visited.

Umbria Region

In my recent review of the 2006 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 ANNI produced by Societa Agricola ARNALDO-CAPRAI srl of Montefalco, Umbria, I stated that the 2006 vintage is still in its infancy and requires some more years for it to age and matures in the bottle before it reaches its peak for consumption. In fact I rated this wine at a high of RS93 as it tasted during the actual tasting and not what I think what it might taste in five years time. I have just had the opportunity to taste-test two other supreme vintages of this wine - the 2000 and the 2005 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 ANNI.

The very dangerous trend of actually rating a wine when it is still en primeur in the barrel some two years prior to bottling and release, has since 1982 created an astronomical spiral in the cost of some wines, especially the premier crus of Bordeaux, that are nowadays unreachable by many, and which are being mainly purchased at fine wine auctions for investment purposes rather then for what wine is actually produced for i.e.: drinking. In my opinion wine should be rated in the bottle, as it is meant to be consumed. Rating otherwise is a racket through which any commodity will become overpriced before it is generally available for no material reason except for the sole purpose of making its producers unwarrantly wealthier year by year. Good luck to them if there are people gullible enough to accomodate them, bad luck to us as consumers, because we are deprived from products due to overpricing. But this is beside the point, so let's get to the job in hand and let's enjoy some of the best, premium wines in the world which are available to all consumers at great value for money:

SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO 25 ANNI DOCG 2000 AND 2005 VINTAGES:
I shall not go into the vinification process of these two vintages as it is the same as for the 2006 which has been detailed in the earlier feature, but I am giving here the tasting notes and the ratings:

2006; 2005 and 2000 Vintages.

These wines will age brilliantly for at least twenty more years. All are strong, robust with dense tannins and structure.  Palate of rasberries, mulberries and maraschino cherries and dark chocolate. Flowery bouquet coupled with herbs and liquorice. Both wines give a long harmonious finish, with the 2000 vintage being the more mellow and enjoyable due to its longer age in the bottle, and better vintage conditions during 2000.

In 2005  weather conditions in most grape growing regions in Italy were erratic causing a difficult vintage in which only the very best grapes, in the ensuing conditions, were selected for premium wine production by the top winemakers.. The 2000 vintage on the other hand was very good in ensuing favourable climatic conditions,  enriching the grape harvests with high sugar concentrations, very good colour and extracts.

Alcohol content: 14.5%
Price Range: Eur68
Serving temperature: 17 - 18 Deg.C

RATINGS: THE 25 ANNI 2000 IS RATED AT RS95 (rated now). 14.5% alcohol by volume.
                    The 25 ANNI 2006 previously rated RS93.                    15% alcohol by volume.
                    The 25 ANNI 2005 rated now RS93.                               14.5% alcohol by volume.

Theses wines are all highly impressive with excellent quality, robust and high alcohol content for the Sagrantino grape varietal, which is unique for Montefalco, Umbria.

ARNALDO-CAPRAI produce various other high quality wine varietals and I have selected two of the very best to contrast with the Sagrantino varietals:

2005 Rosso Outsider IGT.

1. ROSSO OUTSIDER 2005 IGT - ARNALDO CAPRAI.

The term "Super-Tuscan" is very well known among wine connoisseurs, but it is not only in Tuscany that such great, high quality wines, outside the DOC or DOCG classifications are produced in Italy.
The Arnaldo-Caprai Rosso Outsider can be described as a "Super-Umbrian" as the quality of this wine competes very well with the best Tuscans. Like the Super-Tuscans this wine carries the IGT classification but nevertheless it is a superb, full-bodied and robust wine produced from a blend of two of the major, noble, international grape varieties.

Produced from a blend of 50% MERLOT harvested in the first week of September, and 50% CABERNET SAUVIGNON,  harvested in the third week of September, the grapes are crushed and macerated for 23 to 26 days at tempreratures less than 30Deg.C. After fermentation the wine is aged for 18 months in French Oak barrels. Only about 7000 bottles of this wine are produced each year in good vintages.

This wine is deep, dark, ruby in colour, clear, with high, round tannins and smooth acidity, full-bodied and dry, with aromas of violets, dark cherries and minerals. On the palate the Cabernet Sauvignon gives it structure  with a strong taste of black ripe fruit, black currants reminiscent of a good Bordeaux blend. The Merlot content mellows the rather strong Cabernet tannins and adds a taste of spices, dried fruit and plums to the blend. Nice velvety texture and structure and oaky. The finish is long and lingering.
Advisable to open some hours before consuming or to decant the wine at least one hour before. Still needs bottle aging, and can age for at least two decades. A very good, robust wine indeed.

Alcohol content: 14%
Price range: Eur40.
Serving Temperature: 17 - 18 Deg. C.
Food Pairing: Roast red meats; prime steaks; game. Strong mature cheese. Italian cuisine.

RATING: RS93

Grecante Grechetto 2010.

2. GRECANTE GRECHETTO DEI COLLI MARTANI DOC- 2010 - ARNALDO-CAPRAI.

When we review Italian wine we tend to concentrate more on the exclusive Italian red wines than the whites. Nevertheless, we can find some excellent white wines that are exclusively produced from indegenious Italian grape varieties that are found only in certain regions and districts of this country.

GRECHETTO BIANCO is such a grape although some state that its origins are Greek. Grechetto is the dominant grape variety in the well known, easy-drinking Orvieto wine, which has no real relation to the Grecante Grechetto wine under review here.

The grapes for this wine are harvested between the last ten days of August annd the first ten days of September. The grapes are hand-picked, gently pressed to obtain only the fresh must and then fermented at low tempearures, to enhance the aromas and flavours of the wine.
After fermentation, the wine is aged for three months in stainless steels tanks and a further three months in the bottle.
Straw yellow in colour, clean aromas of citrus zest and green apples. On the palate it is crispy, fresh and fruity with a hint of bitter apple. An excellent white wine, round with a very good texture. Good finish. One of the best Italian white wines.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price Range: Eur13.
Serving Temperature: Chilled 10 Deg.C.
RATING: RS88

Seafood Platter.

Food pairings: Fish, seafood, seashells. Mediterranean cuisine. Chicken and white meats.