WINE:Reno Spiteri's Wineopolis.: A Taste of Italy:Campania (2)

Fiano grape cluster.

Greco grape cluster.

Red wines are not the only source of wine production in CAMPANIA. The region has an amazingly lenghty list of indegenious white grape varieties, the most well known of which are FIANO, GRECO and FALANGHINA; as well as Asprinio, Biancolella, Coda di Volpe and Forastera. Until quite recently these grape varieties and others existed only in wine areas of little interest. From this array of grape varieties only the first three are becoming to be well known to wine aficionados in Italy, but are still widely unknown around the wine drinking countries of the world. The first sign that at least FIANO DI AVELLINO and GRECO DI TUFO are being given the importance that they deserve is their elevation to DOCG status, thus becoming the only white wines so honoured in the Mezzogiorno or South of Italy.

Falanghina grape cluster.

One of the first things that a wine connoisseur would state about these two grape varieties when vinified into wine, is that neither Fiano nor Greco are Chardonnay. In fact both are totally anti-Chardonnay, tending towards the opposite end of the spectrum of Chardonnay's buttery sweetness. In fact the complex volcanic soils of the region, results in Campania's white wine to be linked by common attributes of minerality and excellent food friendly acidity that are distinguished by individual flavour profiles.

FIANO DI AVELLINO as well as GRECO DI TUFO, are not just two other Italian light Summer wines. These two full-bodied wines are substantial wines that have earned their place at the dinner table with adequate food throughout the year. They compare and compete with the best Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs in the world.

The wines that we are reviewing in this feature are the:
CAMPANARO - IRPINIA BIANCO 2009 DOC;
FIANO DI AVELLINO 2009 DOCG;
GRECO DI TUFO 2009 DOCG
and
PRIVILEGIO CAMPANIA BIANCO IGT 2007.
All of which are produced by the same winemaker:
FEUDI DI SAN GREGORIO of Sorbo, Serpico, Irpinia, Campania.

Campanaro 2009 DOC Irpinia Bianco.

1. CAMPANARO - IRPINIA BIANCO 2009 DOC.

This wine is produced from a blend of the finest Fiano and Greco grapes, harvested from selected and symbolic vineyards on the winemakers estates in Campania, and is composed of equal amounts from both varieties, which are blended in perfect harmony to produce an exceptional and unique white wine.

Fermentation is achieved in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures of 16 - 18 Deg.C, after which it is aged on its own lees for 5 months with repeated battonage (stirring) and racking, in stainless steel tanks. Further aging in the bottle is done for some months prior to release.

This wine has a golden, straw yellow colour. On the nose it has distinct aromas of ripe pears, apricot and citrus. Flavours of intense minerals, tropical fruit, grapefruit and honey abound, which give the wine an almost sweet character. Excellent good acidity gives a clean, crispy long finish which appeals to those that prefer big and fat wines.

Alcohol content: 13.5%
Price Range: Eur20.

RATING: RS92.

This wine is still in its infancy, and although an excellent white wine that can be consumed now, it might well improve, develop and improve more in the bottle for some months.

Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo 2009 DOCG.

2. FIANO DI AVELLINO 2009 DOCG.

Produced from 100% Fiano grapes, and fermented in stainless steel tanks under controlled conditions and temperatures of 16 - 18 Deg.C.
Matured and aged in stainless steel tanks for 3 months, and further aging in the bottle prior to release.

Pale, straw yellow in colour, with elegant, floral bouquets and aromas of apple, pear and pepper. On the palate it is rich and full-bodied with nuances of honey, nuts and grapefruit flavours. Rich mineral and crispy acidity result in a refreshingly long finish.

Alcohol content: 13%.
Price range: Eur17

RATING: RS90

3. GRECO DI TUFO 2009 DOCG.

Produced from 100% Greco grapes.
Fermentation as per the previous two wines in stainless steel tanks, and aging for 3 months also in stainless steel tanks in contact with its lees to exploit and retain the full texture and minerality of the grape variety.

Deep, straw yellow in colour, brilliant with golden highlights. Exceptionally clear in the glass.
Intense and lingering aromas of tropical fruit, vanilla and mint. Flavours of lemon, lime and grapefruit with a good minerality taste. Very good structure, crisp acidity and refreshing citrusy finish, long, elegant and full-bodied.

Alcohol content: 13%
Price range: Eur17.

RATING: RS90

FOOD PAIRINGS FOR THE ABOVE WINES:
Grilled seafood; rabbit - stewed, caserole and/or fried in extra virgin olive oil and garlic. White fish - grilled, poached steamed; White meats - lemon chicken, veal, pork; Crustaceans - crab, lobster, crayfish, shrimps and prawns; Medium-aged cheeses; Italian and Mediterranean cuisine; Seafood pasta, pizza and salads. Neapolitan pizzas.

Privilegio 2007.

4. PRIVILEGIO CAMPANIA BIANCO 2007 IGT.

Produced from a perfectly harmonised blend of FIANO and FALANGHINA grape varieties.

After late harvesting the selected grape bunches of these two grape varieties are spread and aerated to dry for 8 weeks until they obtain the necessary levels of sugar left in the nectar after all the water content in each grape is dried out, to produce this excellent dessert wine.

Fermentation and maturation takes place in barriques for 12 months, with a further aging period of another 12 months in the bottle.

Deep, golden yellow in colour with exceptional clarity. Bouquet of dried apricot and soft raisins with floral aromas. On the palate it is silky smooth, enriched by broad acidity and mineral nuances. Lingering finish with an aftertaste of citrus zest and peel, spice and peach

Alcohol content: 11.5%
Price range: Eur33.

RATING: RS92

PRIVILEGIO compliments sweet Italian desserts, pastry, tarts and flans, creme bruile', aged cheese, blue cheeses, and strong after dinner espressos.

This dessert wine is excellent to drink now but can be further aged in the bootle up to ten years or more.