WINE:Reno Spiteri's Wineopolis.: UMBRIA - ITALY: Sagrantino di Montefalco.

Sagrantino grape cluster.

One thing that have always attracted me over the years to prefer Italian wine to most others, is the sheer diversity of the different grape varieties and consequently the unique wine varietals that are produced in this Old World wine country. Most of Italy's grape varieties are unique to this country's various wine producing regions and both the grapes and more so the wine are neither grown (in the case of the grapes), and/or produced (as in the case of the wine) anywhere else in the world. Or at least are not comparable with the indegenious varieties.

The international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, although originating from France, are now grown in every wine producing country of the New World, and several excellent and not so excellent wines have been unleashed on the consumer in the last three decades, with wines obtainable in these varieties in any scale of price.

Italy, remains the queen when it comes to some of the world's exotic wine such as the top of the range, premium Barolo and Barbaresco produced in Piedmont from the Nebbiolo grape variety, Brunello di Montalcino and the Chianti Classico Riservas produced in Tuscany from differnt clones of the Sangiovese grape variety, Taurasi Riserva of Campania and its Aglianico grape, Amarone of Verona from the Corvina, Rondinella and Molinari grape varieties, and for the white wine the Gavi di Gavi produced from the Cortese grape variety. Of course there are many other varietals to numerous to name here.

In this feature I am going to review an oppulent, Italian wine varietal that is not so widely known outside its own region of UMBRIA, let alone tasted by wine afficionados around the world.

UMBRIA, and most notably the small hilltop city of MONTEFALCO, which is the symbolic and geogreaphical heart of the Umbrian Valley in Central Italy, is an amazing venue surrounded by twelfth century walls designed so that all roads lead to the beautiful Municipal Square. This city is blessed with an indegenious grape variety which was sacred in the Middle ages as a sacramental wine making grape, nearly totally forgotten in the twentieth century, and which only has been revived and re-cultivated in the late1970's. The growers even succeeding in classifying the few remaining vines that still flourished within the city walls and obtaining the DOCG classification in 1998. The grape variety is the SAGRANTINO, which produce a strong, austere and deeply fascinating wine of great structure and complexity. The region's terroir of mostly clay, limestone and sand soil, the surrounding Apennine Mountains, and Montefalco's location within the basin or valley, the climatic conditions of hot summers, cold winters, cooling breezes provided by the mountains, and the long roots of the vines searching for moisture in the cool clay section of the soil, all play an important part in the unique cultivation of this grape variety which has lots of tannins but yet very sweet dark fruit. Harvesting is usually done in the third week of September.

The wines that I am reviewing in this feature are produced by ARNALDO-CAPRAI SOCIETA AGRICOLA S.R.L. of Montefalco. This company was established in 1971, and from the start introduced a combination of scientific research, new cultivation methods and progressive state of the art winery and wine making methods, as well as appointing top viticulturists and oenologists, resulting in the producion of a Sagrantino wine varietal of great grandeur- full-bodied, tannic, containing high alcohol from its residual sugar, dark, and robust, with great structure and complexity.

The three wines produced from this varietal, that have been taste-tested, analysed, reviewed and rated in this feature are the:

Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 ANNI.

1. ARNALDO-CAPRAI SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO 25 ANNI DOCG-2006.

This greatly structured wine is obtained from 100% Sagrantino grapes. Thanks to the wine's extraordinary richness in polyphenols and tannins this wine is very suitable for long aging. This vintage is still very much in its infancy and still requires years of aging in the bottle until it reaches its peak. The 25 ANNI title is derived from the fact that the first production of this icon wine was done in 1993 to commemorate the 25th anniversary from the founding of the company, thus this is the Silver Jubilee wine of this renowned winemaker.

After a gentle crushing and destemming process, the wine is pumped over constantly to extract all the substances contained in the skins. The must undergoes maceration for 30 days at temperatures of 30deg.C, after which the wine is pumped into French oak barriques and aged for 24 months. This is then followed by 8 months aging in the bottle prior to release.

This wine is deep, dark, ruby red in colour with aromas of wild cherries, plums and dark fruit. On the palate it is rich and volupious with hints of dark chocolate, dried figs and plum, blackcherries and rasberries. Very strong tannins due to its infancy dominate. Dry, full-bodied and full of intense fruit flavour. Complex and well structured with a long finish.

This wine must be further aged in the bottle, and if drunk now must be decanted some three hours before consuming. Due to its strong tannins and body the ideal aging period would be somewhere around 2014. This wine can also be aged for over 20 years.

Grape Variety: 100% Sagrantino - Classification: Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG.
Alcohol Content: 15%
Seving Temperature: 18Deg.C.
Price range: Eur68

Food Pairing: This wine must be drunk as an accompaniment to strong food. Roast red meats- beef and lamb and game. Grilled beef steaks- bistecca al Fiorentina, prime fillet, tenderloin, rib-eye, Chateaubriand. Beef or lamb Osso Buco. Mature and strong cheese.

RATING: RS93. (I'm positive that if reviewed in two years time this wine will reach RS95).

Collepiano 2006.

2. ARNALDO-CAPRAI SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO COLLEPIANO DOCG-2006.

Vinifcation process are nearly the same as for the 25 ANNI wine, but with a maceration time of some 26 to 28 days. This is followed by 22 months aging in French oak barriques and 6 months further aging in the bottle prior to release, in order to reach its full aromatic and organoleptic potential.

Very dark and intense ruby red bordering on black in colour. On the nose it comes out with aromas of violets, ripe black fruit, liquorice and mint. In the mouth it is full-bodied with a good structure, complex even, and with tannins similar to a young Barolo or Barbaresco, strong and dominating. A taste of black chocolate, blackcherries and blackberries with an earthy sensation to the finish.

As per the 25 ANNI, this wine is still very youthful and require at least two more years aging in the bottle to mellow and reduce its austerity. The wine is very dry, austere, racy but nevertheless elegant, and if consumed now must be decanted to let it breath and air for at least two hours prior to drinking.

Food paring the same as for the previous brand.

Grape Variety: 100% Sagrantino. Classification: Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG.
Alcohol content: 14.5%
Serving temperature: 18Deg. C
Price Range: Eur38

RATING: RS92

Passito 2006.

3. ARNALDO-CAPRAI SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO PASSITO DOCG-2006.

This is a beautifully balanced sweet, yet dry dessert wine, produced from 100% Sagrantino grapes, late harvested at the end of October, which after carefull selection the grapes are dried on straw mats for at least two months. The grapes are then pressed and the must is left to ferment in stainless steel tanks together with the skins for about 15 days with constant pumping over. Fermentation is then continued in oak barriques to obtain a very particular Passito wine, sweet yet dry and with a strong tannin content. The wine is further aged for 15 months in French oak barriques and for 8 months in the bottle prior to release.

Deep purple bordering on violet in colour, and having an intense aroma of very ripe forest fruits, blackberries and dried fruit. Sweet on the palate with strong hints of liquorice and dark chocolate. Sweet yet dry with strong tannins. Long finish.

This wine can be drunk now, but can mellow further to reach its peak, with aging potential of decades.

This dessert wine is the perfect accompaniment to Italian sweet desserts and tarts, creamy and hard cheese, after dinner espressos, and a good Havana cigar with a small bar of strong black chocolate.

Grape Variety: 100% Sagrantino.
Alcohol content: 15.5%
Serving temperature: 16/18 deg.C.
Price range: Eur40.

RATING: RS90 (Dessert wine).