The International Wine Appellations and Classifications.

A Famous French Appellation.

In the previous feature I highlighted, in concise form,  the changes to the French wine appellations which came in force in 2009. France has since 1855 been the world's leader in controlling the quality of the country's wine production, so how do the other wine producers, Old World, as well as New World countries compare or try to emulate France in this sphere?

The following is a description of the appellations of several countries which I'm sure will be of interest to every wine afficionado:

France has been covered in the previous feature, so we will not dwell on it any further here.

QbA Classification Germany.

GERMANY -  In Germany quality is graded and classified according to the ripeness of the grapes at harvest and appellations are issued by the German authorities as follows, (lowest grade first):

Deutscher Tafelwein - Medium-dry Table wine.

Deutsher Tafelwein Landwein - Dry or semi-dry regional country wine.

Quatlitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete QbA - quality wines from one of the thirteen recognised and designated, grape growing, quality regions of Germany, which are: Ahr, Mittelrhein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Rheingau, Nahe, Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Franken, Hessiche Bergstrasse, Wuttemberg, Baden, Saale/Unstrut and Sachsen. To be classified QbA these wines must conform with regional appellation laws and are rigorously tested for compliance and issued with an AP number. These laws ensure that the wine is from one specific wine-growing region, is mde from approved grape varieties which have reached sufficient ripeness for quality wine. As the sugar in most grapes in these regions is low, chaptalization (the addig of sugar during fermentation) is allowed to raise the alcohol level to the required level..

Qualitatswein mit Pradikat QmP - this is issued to the finest quality wines that have special attributes representing graduating ripeness levels which are in ascending order: kabinette, Spatlese'. Ausles, Beerenauslese (BA), Eiswein, Trockenbeerernauslese (TBA).

Two new classifications of dry wines, Classic and Selection, were established in 2000. Winemakers can produce wines under these classifications in all the thirteen wine-grape growing regions of Germany, provided the wines are above average in quality, harmoniously dry in taste, and made fom a traditional German grape variety - Riesling, Silvaner, Rivaner, Burgunder varieties.

AUSTRIA - operates the same system as Germany with an extra classification known as Ausbruch for rich, sweet wines.

LIP - Penfolds Australia.

AUSTRALIA - In 1990 Australia introduced a programme to promote the integrity of the information that is stated on the label. This programme is called Label Integrity Programme LIP. Information on the label have to denote vintage, grape variety and geographical indication. Those wineries registered in this programme are continuosly monitored by LIP inspectors who would dictate and issue the use of the classification under these conditions: If the geographical and wine varietal are indicated on the label, the grape variety (from which the wine is made) should be at least 85% of that particular grape, and the grape quantity used must be at least 85% sourced and grown in the region indicated.  With regard to the vintage year, also 85% at least, of the grape variety used, must have been harvested in the vintage year indicated.
The back label, front, neck and cap have equal status under Australian wine law, so information may appear on either the front or the back label. The volume of the bottle must appear on the front label.

As such this programme does not in anyway guarantee or stipulate quality requirements leading to, or of, the finished product, as this is left to individual winemakers to decide upon.

Wine of Origin South Africa.

SOUTH AFRICA -  The quality designation for South African wine is Wine of Origin, indicating the name of the region. If a vintage year is printed on the label, the wine must be produced from at least 75% of grapes harvested in the year labeled; If a grape variety is mentioned it must also be produced from at least 75% of grapes of that varietal. The Wine of Origin designation appears as a seal on the side of the neck of the bottle, and it certifies that any information given on the label relating to vintage, origin or grape variety is correct, but as in the case of Australia is not necessarily an indication of quality.

DOC Italian Label.

ITALY - Italian wine laws were commenced in 1963 with the introduction of the DOC Denominazione di Origine Controllata. In 1980 the DOCG Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita was introduced and awarded to selected regions which were producing wines of exceptional quality and renown.

The Chianti Classico Seal.

One has to note here, that the word "Garantita" in the DOCG classification, might seem to imply that the quality of the wine is guaranteed. It is not. The flaw in this system is the fact that these denominations are applied to entire regions in which the greatest wine in that region and the most ordinary and low quality get to say they are DOCG. For example all wines under the Chianti label are DOCG's but one can find superlative Chianti (Riserva, Classico and even just Chianti), but then again one can buy a bottle of the most plebeian Chianti in a supermarket for just Eur2.80 which come with the DOCG label.

Super-Tuscan IGT.

In 1992, a third classification, that known as IGT or Indicazione Geografica Tipica was created. Although this classification is supposed to be at the lower base of the Italian classification pyramid, one can find some great wines under this category, which although they do not conform to the DOC or DOCG rules, one can find some of Italy's greatest wines; Tignanello, Sassicaia, Solaia are three of the most well known, but there are various other "Super Tuscan" IGT wines that is a privilege to own and drink.
There are at present 41 regions which hold the DOCG classification, 350 regions hold the DOC classification, and some 130 whose wines are classified under the IGT system.
Under each and every classification, wine quality is the prerogative and choice of each individual winemaker.

To illustrate this I am producing here the DOCG classified, wine making, provinces of Italy, indicating the number of wines/regions within them that hold this classification:

Piedmont 12: Asti Spumanti; Barbera D'Asti; Barbera Del Monferrato Superiore; Barbaresco; Barolo; Brachetto d'Acqui; Gattinara; Gavi or Cortese di Gavi; Ghemme; Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore; Roero; Dolcetto di Ovada.

Tuscany 7: Brunello di Montalcino; Carnignano Rosso; Chianti (8 sub regions); Chianti Classico; Morrellino di Scansano; Vernaccia di San Gimignano; Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Veneto 4: Bardolino Superiore; Recioto di Gambellara; Recioto di Soave; Soave Superiore.

Abruzzo 1: Montepulciano d'Abr4uzzo Coline Teramane.
Campania 3: Fiano di Avellino; Greco di Tufp; Taurasi.

DOCG and IGT Wines from Campania.

Emilia-Romagna 1: Albana di Romagna.
Fruili-Venezia Giulia 2: Ramandolo; Colli Orientale del Friuli Picolit.
Lazio 1: Casanese del Piglio.

Lombardia 4: Franciacorta; Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico; Svorzato di Valtellina; Valtellina Superiore.

Marche 2: Conero; Vernaccia di Serrapetrona.
Sardinia 1: Vermentino di Gallura.
Sicilia 1: Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
Umbria 2: Montefalco Sagrantino; Torgiano Riserva.

California Wine Label -AVA

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA - The American Viticulture Area AVA is the American version of the French AOC system. The word "Appellation" or "classification" will not appear anywhere on the bottle. There will be the name of the region of grape harvest and production, for example: California (State) or Sonoma or Napa Valley, or maybe something more specific. If the region or viticulure area is on the label, then 85% of the grapes in that wine must have come from that area. A vineyard designated wine must contain not less than 95% of the grapes harvested from that vineyard. Vineyard names must be used together with the county or AVA names.
Wine laws in the USA are administered by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms

Rioja DOC wine label.

SPAIN - Certifies the origin of the grape in a wine under the classification Denominacion de Origen DO which were enacted in 1932 and revised in 1970 and is in a way similar to the French AOC now AOP laws. These laws define and protect wines from specific geographic areas.. This classification is administered by the Instituto Nacional de Denominaciones de Origen INDO, under the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture. This system administers a broad range of agricultural products ranging from wine, olive oil cured hams and cheeses.
There are fiftyfour DO's or officially recognized and geagraphically defined wine regions in Spain. Rioja has a special classification of Denominacion de Origen Calificada DOC (Qualified Denomination of Origin)

DOK and DOKS wines of Malta.

MALTA - had been toying and preparing legislation to control the production of wine since 2001, but eventually these laws were enacted and came into being in 2007, through LEGAL NOTICE 416 of 2007, amended by Legal Notice 168 of 2011. The DOK Wines Production Protocols (SL436.07). Subsidiary Legislation 436.07 was passed in 2007 and the D.O.K. WINES PRODUCTION PROTOCOLS REGULATIONS came into being on the 1st of May, of that year.
Wine production quality in Malta took a gigantic leap forward through these regulations, which control everything in winemaking from the vineyard to the bottle.
The classifications of note are the DOK Denominazzjoni Originali Kontrollata;
DOK-S Denominazzjoini Originali Kontrollata-Superjuri (the S denotes a higher alcohol content over 12%), and the IGT Indikazzjoni Geografica Tipika.
As with all other appellations and classifications of all other countries, final wine quality rests on the winemakers' style and production methods, but one is assured that grape varieties used in wine, bearing these classification notation on the label, are sourced from approved vineyards in Malta or Gozo, which have been cultivated and harvested by vignerons, under controlled conditions by the Ministry of Agriculture.
Wine analyses and tests, prior to approval and the award of the clasification labels are analysed and tested in laboratories in both Malta and in Siena, Italy.

It is also important to note that all winemaking countries produce vast quantities of VdT's Vino di Tavola, Table wines, or as they might be known in the USA jug wines. These wines do not normally fall under the appellation laws and are in the main inferior in quality.

It is also pertinent to note, that wine quality varies within the same country, or from country to country, for wines with the same classification, and a higher appellation does not guarantee that they are as a matter of fact, better than top class wines that are classified under a lower appellation.
E.G. several IGT classified Super Tuscans, or French super garage wines (Vins du garage) produced by garagistes , etc are amongst the best wines for quality in the world.

Tignanello IGT.

Grand Cru

Sassicaia IGT.

Changes to the French wine appellations:

French wines have always been divided into three main categories or appellations.
These were:

1. The lowest grade - Vin de Table (Table wine);
2. The middle grade - Vin de Pays;
and
3. The top appellation of Appellation d'Origine Controlee AOC.

In August of 2009 these appellations ceased to exist as they have been replaced by the following designations:



1. VIN DE FRANCE.

The former  "Vin de Table" category has been replaced by the appellation "Vin de France".
The requirements for this appellation do not require the specific area of the grape harvest and grape variety name to be indicated but since August 2009, there is a possibility to mention the varietal names on the label.
Yields are limited and minimum and maximum alcohol content are specified.

2. IGP - INDICATION GEOGRAPHIQUE PROTEGEE.

The former "Vin de Pays" in now indicated as IGP or Indication Geographique Protegee.
The new terminolgy indicate better the definition of this category in that of "wine of the region", which is now at a more specific geographical level.
In this appellation a specific region of the grape harvest must be indicated.
Specified and permitted varietals..
Specified vineyard limited yields - 50 to 90 hectolitres per hectare.
Minimum and maximum alcohol control.
Final approval from the French authorities after analysis of the wine quality (includig a tasting test), must be obtained before the wine can be released under this appellation.
This category offer a range of wines that are of very good quality, easy drinking wines that also offer good value for money. This designation does not man that the wine is of a lesser quality thyan wines under the (AOC)  IGP designation. It may only mean that the winemaker has chosen not to abide by the rules of the higher appellation such as deciding to blend in a wine varietal produced from a grape that is not approved for the regional appellation.

The four regional IGP's (ex- Vin de Pays) are:

Val de Loire - covers the Loire Valley;
Comtes Rhodanians - covers the Rhone, Beaujolais, Savoie and Jura.
Comte Tolosan - covers the South West of France around Toulouse;
The Languedoc region which was formerly categorised as Vin de Pays d'Oc.

Each of these regional appellations have sub-appellations within them, thus continuing to complicate matters.

3. AOP - APPELLATION D'ORIGINE PROTEGEE.

The highest appellation of AOC Appellation d'Origine Controlee is now the AOP or Appellation d'Origine Protegee.
This appellation comes with very strict criterias.
Areas of grape growing are restricted to specific "terroir";
Specified and permitted grapes and limited vineyard yields - not more than 50 hectolitres per hectare.;
Vineyards are monitored by the authorities;
Approved winemaking methods - pruning types, harvesting techniques and vinification methods.
Strict final approval of the wine and vintage prior to the award of this appellation.
This is the highest French appellation, reserved for the most prestigious wines which carries with it the  most demanding requirements. As such, quality and price are as expected to be somewhat high.
The legal responsibility for administering appellations in France falls under the jurisdiction of INAO short for Institut National des Appellations d'Origine'.

There are currently over 300 French wines that are entitled to use the designation AOP (formerly AOC) on their label, and they come from all the leading winemaking regions of France.

The VDQS - Vins Delimite' de Qualite' Superieure -  category which was introduced in 1949, for quality wines that used to fall between the "Vin de Pays" and the higher AOC category, shall cease to exist after December, 2011. The last wines that can be labelled VDQS are those of the 2010 vintage. Existing VDQS areas will have until the end of this year to either qualify for full AOP status, or to become IGP category wines.

THE MEDOC CLASSIFICATION OF 1855.

French wine classification historically entered a new era in 1855 in Bordeaux, when Napolean III insisted that the best Bordeaux wine become classified to sort out the top wines from the mediocre. Thus the 1855 classification came into being and the Bordeaux wine making regions were divided into CRUS categorised with the top wines being given Premier Cru (First Growth status) with declining categories classified down to Cinquiemes Crus (Fifth Growth). There were 61 chateaux classified (from First Growth to Fifth Growth), under this classifiaction with hundreds of winemakers below fifth growth quality not being classified at all.

In the first Classification, only four Chateaux or vineyards from the communes of Pauillac, Margaux and Pessac, were clasified as Premier Crus.
These were:
Chateaux Lafite-Rothschild - Pauillac;
Chateaux Latour -                   Pauillac;
Chateaux Margaux -               Margaux;
Chateaux Haut-Brion -           Pessac, Graves.
In 1973, after years of wrangling with the INAO, Chateaux Moutin-Rothschild of Pauillac was elevated from Second Growth - Deuxiems Cru to Premier Cru, in the first and last re-classification of any chateau under this very strict classification.

Chateau D' Yquem was given the classification of Premier Cru Superieure in the original 1855 Classifications.

Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Ausone, of St. Emilion, were elevated to, and classified as,  Premier Crand Cru Classe' in 1955 (re-classified in 1996).

POMEROL was never classified although Chateau Petrus ranks with the top Premier Crus for excellence in quality and its high prices.

In the BURGUNDY classification the Grand Crus reign supreme, with the top red wines coming from the Cote' de Nuits and the white Grand Crus from the Cote' de Beaune.

Wines classified under these categories must show their superior classifications over and above the (AOC) now AOP - Appellation d'Origine Protegee on the wine label - for example: Joseph Drouhin-Recolte du Domaine: MUSIGNY GRAND CRU - Appelation Controllee.

In all of the above, we have not touched on the actual wines that come under the above categories and classification appellations, such as Hermitage, Chateauneuf du Pape, Chablis, Sancerre, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and the thousand and one other supreme French wines. The consumer, thus is at a loss on what grape variety or wine varietal he is drinking when faced with these labels as the grape variety is not normally listed on the label. To know what is in the bottle,the consumer must have a knowledge of each region as well as of each winemaker to know which grape varieties are permissible to produce these wines. With well over 230,000 winemakers and vineyards in France, this is no mean feat, and thus is not an easy task. The consumer deserves better, easy accessible information from the wine label, it is doubtful but lets hope that the new classification appellations will go some way to achieve this.

In a future feature, I shall endeavour to give you, the consumer, the grape varieties that are allowed in the production of some of the better known top French wines.

A Taste of Italy: UMBRIA Re-Visited.

Umbria Region

In my recent review of the 2006 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 ANNI produced by Societa Agricola ARNALDO-CAPRAI srl of Montefalco, Umbria, I stated that the 2006 vintage is still in its infancy and requires some more years for it to age and matures in the bottle before it reaches its peak for consumption. In fact I rated this wine at a high of RS93 as it tasted during the actual tasting and not what I think what it might taste in five years time. I have just had the opportunity to taste-test two other supreme vintages of this wine - the 2000 and the 2005 Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 ANNI.

The very dangerous trend of actually rating a wine when it is still en primeur in the barrel some two years prior to bottling and release, has since 1982 created an astronomical spiral in the cost of some wines, especially the premier crus of Bordeaux, that are nowadays unreachable by many, and which are being mainly purchased at fine wine auctions for investment purposes rather then for what wine is actually produced for i.e.: drinking. In my opinion wine should be rated in the bottle, as it is meant to be consumed. Rating otherwise is a racket through which any commodity will become overpriced before it is generally available for no material reason except for the sole purpose of making its producers unwarrantly wealthier year by year. Good luck to them if there are people gullible enough to accomodate them, bad luck to us as consumers, because we are deprived from products due to overpricing. But this is beside the point, so let's get to the job in hand and let's enjoy some of the best, premium wines in the world which are available to all consumers at great value for money:

SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO 25 ANNI DOCG 2000 AND 2005 VINTAGES:
I shall not go into the vinification process of these two vintages as it is the same as for the 2006 which has been detailed in the earlier feature, but I am giving here the tasting notes and the ratings:

2006; 2005 and 2000 Vintages.

These wines will age brilliantly for at least twenty more years. All are strong, robust with dense tannins and structure.  Palate of rasberries, mulberries and maraschino cherries and dark chocolate. Flowery bouquet coupled with herbs and liquorice. Both wines give a long harmonious finish, with the 2000 vintage being the more mellow and enjoyable due to its longer age in the bottle, and better vintage conditions during 2000.

In 2005  weather conditions in most grape growing regions in Italy were erratic causing a difficult vintage in which only the very best grapes, in the ensuing conditions, were selected for premium wine production by the top winemakers.. The 2000 vintage on the other hand was very good in ensuing favourable climatic conditions,  enriching the grape harvests with high sugar concentrations, very good colour and extracts.

Alcohol content: 14.5%
Price Range: Eur68
Serving temperature: 17 - 18 Deg.C

RATINGS: THE 25 ANNI 2000 IS RATED AT RS95 (rated now). 14.5% alcohol by volume.
                    The 25 ANNI 2006 previously rated RS93.                    15% alcohol by volume.
                    The 25 ANNI 2005 rated now RS93.                               14.5% alcohol by volume.

Theses wines are all highly impressive with excellent quality, robust and high alcohol content for the Sagrantino grape varietal, which is unique for Montefalco, Umbria.

ARNALDO-CAPRAI produce various other high quality wine varietals and I have selected two of the very best to contrast with the Sagrantino varietals:

2005 Rosso Outsider IGT.

1. ROSSO OUTSIDER 2005 IGT - ARNALDO CAPRAI.

The term "Super-Tuscan" is very well known among wine connoisseurs, but it is not only in Tuscany that such great, high quality wines, outside the DOC or DOCG classifications are produced in Italy.
The Arnaldo-Caprai Rosso Outsider can be described as a "Super-Umbrian" as the quality of this wine competes very well with the best Tuscans. Like the Super-Tuscans this wine carries the IGT classification but nevertheless it is a superb, full-bodied and robust wine produced from a blend of two of the major, noble, international grape varieties.

Produced from a blend of 50% MERLOT harvested in the first week of September, and 50% CABERNET SAUVIGNON,  harvested in the third week of September, the grapes are crushed and macerated for 23 to 26 days at tempreratures less than 30Deg.C. After fermentation the wine is aged for 18 months in French Oak barrels. Only about 7000 bottles of this wine are produced each year in good vintages.

This wine is deep, dark, ruby in colour, clear, with high, round tannins and smooth acidity, full-bodied and dry, with aromas of violets, dark cherries and minerals. On the palate the Cabernet Sauvignon gives it structure  with a strong taste of black ripe fruit, black currants reminiscent of a good Bordeaux blend. The Merlot content mellows the rather strong Cabernet tannins and adds a taste of spices, dried fruit and plums to the blend. Nice velvety texture and structure and oaky. The finish is long and lingering.
Advisable to open some hours before consuming or to decant the wine at least one hour before. Still needs bottle aging, and can age for at least two decades. A very good, robust wine indeed.

Alcohol content: 14%
Price range: Eur40.
Serving Temperature: 17 - 18 Deg. C.
Food Pairing: Roast red meats; prime steaks; game. Strong mature cheese. Italian cuisine.

RATING: RS93

Grecante Grechetto 2010.

2. GRECANTE GRECHETTO DEI COLLI MARTANI DOC- 2010 - ARNALDO-CAPRAI.

When we review Italian wine we tend to concentrate more on the exclusive Italian red wines than the whites. Nevertheless, we can find some excellent white wines that are exclusively produced from indegenious Italian grape varieties that are found only in certain regions and districts of this country.

GRECHETTO BIANCO is such a grape although some state that its origins are Greek. Grechetto is the dominant grape variety in the well known, easy-drinking Orvieto wine, which has no real relation to the Grecante Grechetto wine under review here.

The grapes for this wine are harvested between the last ten days of August annd the first ten days of September. The grapes are hand-picked, gently pressed to obtain only the fresh must and then fermented at low tempearures, to enhance the aromas and flavours of the wine.
After fermentation, the wine is aged for three months in stainless steels tanks and a further three months in the bottle.
Straw yellow in colour, clean aromas of citrus zest and green apples. On the palate it is crispy, fresh and fruity with a hint of bitter apple. An excellent white wine, round with a very good texture. Good finish. One of the best Italian white wines.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Price Range: Eur13.
Serving Temperature: Chilled 10 Deg.C.
RATING: RS88

Seafood Platter.

Food pairings: Fish, seafood, seashells. Mediterranean cuisine. Chicken and white meats.

The Veneto-Italy:Valpolicella, Ripasso, Amarone.

The Veneto Region.

THE VENETO region together with Fruili-Venezia Guilia and Trentino-Alto Adige regions form that famous district in the Northeastern part of Italy, known as the Tre Venezie - the Three Venices.

It is estimated that these three regions produce about 15% of all wines produced in Italy, on top of which this amount account for an estimated 30% of all DOC category wines from this country.

The Tre Venezie district is renowned for several popular wines that are produced here from several indegenious grape varieties by various long established winemakers, who adher to long established precise and decisive traditions that are unique to these regions. Most of these wines are named after the location, town, city or village in which they are produced such as Soave, Valpolicella and Bardolino. A stylish Prosecco - Sparkling Wine, as well as other exclusive reds come from this area. For this feature, I am concentrating only on the Veneto, but I am looking forward to have the opportunity to sample and rate some wines from the other two regions in due course.

The Veneto is the western section of the Tre Venezie, near Lago di Garda on one side and the volcanic mountain range of Monte Lessini on the other. Various categories of traditional wines (Soave, Valpolicella and Bardolino - which are all available as low-quality, as well as superlative high-quality wines), are produced here, and major efforts and progress have been achieved in the last years to eradicate the notion that this region can only produce light, cheap, quaffing wines such as were produced during the 1960's and 1970's for the United States and British markets. These countries at that time were lucrative markets for cheap Italian wines. The introduction of the DOC and DOCG rules in 1966, better viticultural and oenology techniques as well as competition from emerging, new wine producing countries, instigated the leading winemakers in these regions to produce various world-class wines that can only be produced successfully here.

The major city of the Veneto is VERONA, which is referred to as Italy's Wine Capital and in which the country's largest wine fair VinItaly is held every year. The dates for next year have already been set for the 25th to the 28th of March, 2012. The 2011 exhibition in April saw 156,000 visitors attending.

Three Veneto Classics.

The Veneto's most important wines are: Amarone, Valpolicella and Ripasso di Valpolicella for the red wines, and Soave and Prosecco for the white wines. Other wines worthy of note produced here are: Bardolino and Recioto della Valpolicella (sweet) for the red wines; Bianco di Custoza, the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio, as well as Recioto di Soave for the whites. Various Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay varietal wines are also produced, but these grape varieties are not indegenious to the region.

Our wine of choice for this feature is the Valpolicella and its derivatives, and after giving a brief outline of the various categories of this wine, reviews of a brand selection and ratings shall be given to illustrate the feature.

Corvina Veronese Cluster.

Today, six different and distinct styles of Valpolicella wines are produced. Valpolicella is a blended wine produced from at least 70% Corvina, with the remaining 30% being selected from the Rondinella, and Molinara grape varieties as well as the Negrara and Sangiovese varieties by some winemakers. The styles are:

1. The basic Valpolicella, which is extremely light and mainly forgettable.
2. The Valpolicella Classico, which is a step above the basic version, but which is also a lightish, quaffing wine for everyday drinking with pizza and pasta. After fermentation in September, this wine is kept in stainless steel tanks until it is bottled in the spring for immediate release and consumption.

Classico Superiore -Exceptional.

3. The Valpolicella Classico Superiore. The "Superiore" title here, is not given in vain to the best produced versions of this wine. It is a much superior wine to 1 and 2 above, as it is produced from high quality grapes, chosen from low yield vineyards; after fermentaion and the maceration process the wine is matured and aged on oak barrles for 12 months as well as more bottle aging prior to release. This results in a more structured wine that can prove to be sensational and fascinating in the hands of a top class Vigneron and Oenologist.
4. AMARONE. This is the top category of Valpolicella. Amarone means the bitter one, and is produced from the same grape blend as the Valpolicella. The difference between the production of Valpolicella and Amarone is crucial. Whereas the grapes for the Valpolicella are picked during the normal harvest in mid to late September each year, the selected grapes for the Amarone are left hanging on the vine until the mid-third of October, to achieve more ripeness and therefore more residual sugar before they are hand-picked. For Amarone, only the upper portion of each grape cluster is selected since it is here that the grapes are richest in sugar and extracts.
The selected grape bunches are then spread on mats and left in cool, drying lofts for three to five months, so that the grapes would shrivel and lose most of their water content, thus further concentrating the sugar nectar and flavours of each grape.
When the grapes are finally crushed and fermented,maceration and eventual malolactic fermentation completed, the resultant wine is lavish, full-bodied and containing well over 15% alcohol, even 16.5%in the better wines. Some of the best Amarone's are aged in new oak barrels and casks as well as in the bottle for about five years prior to release, thus finally releasing a wine that is powerful with Port like flavours, structure and complexity.
Amarone is the embodiment of the Valpolicella wine and the product that has elevated the Veneto to World-Class as a wine producing region.
5. Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore: This is the inbetween style of the best Valpolicella and Amarone.
This wine style is produced by selecting the best Valpolicella Classico wine in the best vintages, from the recent harvest of September/October. The wine is fermented and stored in oak or stainless steel tanks until February.
By this time the Amarone production processes- drying out of the grapes after harvest (approx. 4 months); crushing, pressing and fermentation would be completed.  The Amarone wine is then transferred to oak barrels and casks for maturing, leaving the pomace in the fermentation tanks.
The Valpolicella wine is then pumped in carefully onto the Amarone pomace in the fermentation tanks and left to re-ferment for at least two weeks. During this time the Valopicella wine picks up extra colour, tannin, flavour and structure and becomes ripasso.
6. Ricioto della Valpolicella. This is the sixth style and is the sweet and rich dessert wine that compliments the above styles at the end of a superb dinner. Fermentation is stopped before full completion so that some of the residual sugar in the grape is retained, so that the wine will acquire that distinct sweet taste which makes it such a luscious dessert wine.

WINE REVIEWS:
For our wine reviews and ratings from this region, for this feature I picked three superb wines produced by Azienda Vinicola Zenato of San Benedetto di Lugana, Italy.

Zenato Valpolicella Classico Superiore

1. ZENATO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE DOC 2008.
This is a sumptious red wine, which is superior by far to most Valpolicella wines that I have taste-tested before, and which took me by surprise during the first blind tasting as Valpolicella wine does not normally reach my expectations of a premium wine.
This VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE from Zenato is not just different and vastly superior to the norm, but it is in a class of its own among Valpolicella's in this category. An excellent product which at the first blind tasting was compared to the best Vino Nobile de Montepulciano's and Chianti Riserva's, probably due to its Sangiovese content and richness of the Corvina Veronese.

This wine is produced from a blend of : 80% Corvina Veronese; 10% Rondinella; 10% Sangiovese, which grapes were cultivated and harvested from selected vineyards in the Classico area of the Sant Ambrogio comune hills. Harvest mid-third October by hand.

Vinification: After destemming, the grapes were crushed, followed by the traditional 6 to 7 days fermentation and macerartion on the skins, in temperature controlled conditions. The wine is then kept in stainless steel tanks until it is eventually pressed. After malolactic fermentation is completed, the wine is transferred for maturation in 33 and 55hl barrels for twelve months and eventual further bottle aging prior to release.

The wine is dark ruby verging on black, with full ripe fruit aromas, spice, liquorice and vanilla, with a distinct hint of violets on the nose. Rich flavours of mocha, cassis, dark chocolate and dried cherry and plums. The wine is creamy, full-bodied and dry with an excellent texture and complexity. It is well balanced with smooth tannins. Finish is long with an aftertaste of liquorice and ripe black fruit.

Alcohol content: 13.5%
Serving temperature: 17 - 18 deg.C.
Aging potential: 10 years.
Price range: Eur10
RATING:  RS91
An excellent wine at a very good value for money.

Zenato Ripassa Classico Superiore.

2. ZENATO RIPASSA VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE DOC 2007.

This wine is blended from 80% Corvina Veronese; 10% Rondinella; and 10% Sangiovese, similar to the above Valpolicella Classico Superiore, with a second fermentation period on the pomace of the Amarone wine some 5 months after the first fermentation.

Vinification is the same as for the Valpolicella Classico Superiore. The second fermentation on the Amarone pomace, ten day further maceration at controlled temperatures of 25 - 30 deg. C, is then followed by an 18 month maturation period in Slavonian oak casks. After bottling the wine is further aged for 6 months prior to release.

This wine is dark, deep ruby red. Full-bodied with strong ripe black fruit aromas, with hints of violets, spice and vanilla from the oak casks. Rich flavours of dark chocolate, dried red cherry, black pepper, and ripe black fruit. Well balanced with smooth tannins,  elegant with a long finish.

Alcohol content: 14%
Serving Temperature: 17-18 Deg. C.
Aging potential: 15 years.
Price Range: Eur21
RATING: RS92.

Zenato Amarone Classico.

3. ZENATO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2006 DOC.

Grape Varieties: 80% Corvina Veronese; 10% Rondinella; 5% Sangiovese; 5% Molinara. Harvested by hand from the Classico area of the Sant Ambrogio comune hills, in the mid-third of October.

After careful selection of the grapes the grape clusters are placed in shallow wood trays to dry out for about 5 months. The grapes are then crushed, pressed and fermented on the skins for a number of days under temperature controlled conditions. The fermented wine is then transferred into 300 litres, French Oak barrels and Slavonian casks for maturation which takes about 30 months. This is then followed by 12 months aging in the bottle prior to release.

This wine is a soft, opulent and exotic full-bodied wine. Dark ruby red in colour bordering on black, creamy and thick in the glass. Aromas of black liquorice and dark chocolate and black cherries. Bouquets of violets, vanilla and spice. Deep flavours of plum, pepper, nuts and ripe dark fruit and chocolate covered cherries. A refined and elegant, robust red wine with a fascinating balance and structure. Finish is long and lingering, accompanied by a vintage Port aftertaste.
It is recommended to open the wine and to decant it at least two hours before serving.

Alcohol Content: 16.5%
Serving temperature: 18 deg. C.
Aging potential: 20 years.
Price range: Eur40
RATING: RS94.

Grilled Bistecca Fiorentina.

FOOD PAIRING: Strong wines require strong cuisine. These wines pair well with Roast red meats - lamb and beef; game - venison, boar; Grilled and barbecued prime steaks - bistecca alla Fiorentina,          Rib-eye; Kobe Wangyu beef; Roast prime-rib; Osso Buco;  roast turkey. Strong, aged Italian cheese - Gorgonzola, Grana Padano, Parmesan, Robiola. Black truffle.

Black Truffle

Parmigiano Regiano

BBQ Rib-eye.

Grilled whole beef fillet.

UMBRIA - ITALY: Sagrantino di Montefalco.

Sagrantino grape cluster.

One thing that have always attracted me over the years to prefer Italian wine to most others, is the sheer diversity of the different grape varieties and consequently the unique wine varietals that are produced in this Old World wine country. Most of Italy's grape varieties are unique to this country's various wine producing regions and both the grapes and more so the wine are neither grown (in the case of the grapes), and/or produced (as in the case of the wine) anywhere else in the world. Or at least are not comparable with the indegenious varieties.

The international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, although originating from France, are now grown in every wine producing country of the New World, and several excellent and not so excellent wines have been unleashed on the consumer in the last three decades, with wines obtainable in these varieties in any scale of price.

Italy, remains the queen when it comes to some of the world's exotic wine such as the top of the range, premium Barolo and Barbaresco produced in Piedmont from the Nebbiolo grape variety, Brunello di Montalcino and the Chianti Classico Riservas produced in Tuscany from differnt clones of the Sangiovese grape variety, Taurasi Riserva of Campania and its Aglianico grape, Amarone of Verona from the Corvina, Rondinella and Molinari grape varieties,  and for the white wine the Gavi di Gavi produced from the Cortese grape variety. Of course there are many other varietals to numerous to name here.

In this feature I am going to review an oppulent, Italian wine varietal that is not so widely known outside its own region of UMBRIA, let alone tasted by wine afficionados around the world.

UMBRIA, and most notably the small hilltop city of MONTEFALCO, which is the symbolic and geogreaphical heart of the Umbrian Valley in Central Italy, is an amazing venue surrounded by twelfth century walls designed so that all roads lead to the beautiful Municipal Square. This city is blessed with an indegenious grape variety which was sacred in the Middle ages as a sacramental wine making grape, nearly totally forgotten in the twentieth century, and which only has been revived and re-cultivated in the late1970's. The growers even succeeding in classifying the few remaining vines that still flourished within the city walls and obtaining the DOCG classification in 1998. The grape variety is the SAGRANTINO, which produce a strong, austere and deeply fascinating wine of great structure and complexity.  The region's terroir of mostly clay, limestone and sand soil, the surrounding Apennine Mountains, and Montefalco's location within the basin or valley, the climatic conditions of hot summers, cold winters, cooling breezes provided by the mountains, and the long roots of the vines searching for moisture in the cool clay section of the soil, all play an important part in the unique cultivation of this grape variety which has lots of tannins but yet very sweet dark fruit. Harvesting is usually done in the third week of September.

The wines that I am reviewing in this feature are produced by ARNALDO-CAPRAI SOCIETA AGRICOLA S.R.L. of Montefalco. This company was established in 1971, and from the start introduced a combination of scientific research, new cultivation methods and progressive state of the art winery and wine making methods, as well as appointing top viticulturists and oenologists, resulting in the producion of a Sagrantino wine varietal of great grandeur- full-bodied, tannic, containing high alcohol from its residual sugar, dark, and robust, with great structure and complexity.

The three wines produced from this varietal, that have been taste-tested, analysed, reviewed and rated in this feature are the:

Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 ANNI.

1. ARNALDO-CAPRAI SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO 25 ANNI DOCG-2006.

This greatly structured wine is obtained from 100% Sagrantino grapes. Thanks to the wine's extraordinary richness in polyphenols and tannins this wine is very suitable for long aging. This vintage is still very much in its infancy and still requires years of aging in the bottle until it reaches its peak. The 25 ANNI title is derived from the fact that the first production of this icon wine was done in 1993 to commemorate the 25th anniversary from the founding of the company, thus this is the Silver Jubilee wine of this renowned winemaker.

After a gentle crushing and destemming process, the wine is pumped over constantly to extract all the substances contained in the skins. The must undergoes maceration for 30 days at temperatures of 30deg.C, after which the wine is pumped into French oak barriques and aged for 24 months. This is then followed by 8 months aging in the bottle prior to release.

This wine is deep, dark, ruby red in colour with aromas of wild cherries, plums and dark fruit. On the palate it is rich and volupious with hints of dark chocolate, dried figs and plum, blackcherries and rasberries. Very strong tannins due to its infancy dominate. Dry, full-bodied and full of intense fruit flavour. Complex and well structured with a long finish.

This wine must be further aged in the bottle, and if drunk now must be decanted some three hours before consuming. Due to its strong tannins and body the ideal aging period would be somewhere around 2014. This wine can also be aged for over 20 years.

Grape Variety: 100% Sagrantino - Classification: Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG.
Alcohol Content: 15%
Seving Temperature: 18Deg.C.
Price range: Eur68

Food Pairing: This wine must be drunk as an accompaniment to strong food. Roast red meats- beef and lamb and game. Grilled beef steaks- bistecca al Fiorentina, prime fillet, tenderloin, rib-eye,  Chateaubriand. Beef or lamb Osso Buco. Mature and strong cheese.

RATING: RS93. (I'm positive that if reviewed in two years time this wine will reach RS95).

Collepiano 2006.

2. ARNALDO-CAPRAI SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO COLLEPIANO DOCG-2006.

Vinifcation process are nearly the same as for the 25 ANNI wine, but with a maceration time of some 26 to 28 days. This is followed by 22 months aging in French oak barriques and 6 months further aging in the bottle prior to release, in order to reach its full aromatic and organoleptic potential.

Very dark and intense ruby red bordering on black in colour. On the nose it comes out with aromas of  violets, ripe black fruit, liquorice and mint. In the mouth it is full-bodied with a good structure, complex even, and with tannins similar to a young Barolo or Barbaresco, strong and dominating. A taste of black chocolate, blackcherries and blackberries with an earthy sensation to the finish.

As per the 25 ANNI, this wine is still very youthful and require at least two more years aging in the bottle to mellow and reduce its austerity. The wine is very dry, austere, racy but nevertheless elegant, and if consumed now must be decanted to let it breath and air for at least two hours prior to drinking.

Food paring the same as for the previous brand.

Grape Variety: 100% Sagrantino. Classification: Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG.
Alcohol content: 14.5%
Serving temperature: 18Deg. C
Price Range: Eur38

RATING: RS92

Passito 2006.

3. ARNALDO-CAPRAI SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO PASSITO DOCG-2006.

This is a beautifully balanced sweet, yet dry dessert wine, produced from 100% Sagrantino grapes, late harvested at the end of October, which after carefull selection the grapes are dried on straw mats for at least two months. The grapes are then pressed and the must is left to ferment in stainless steel tanks together with the skins for about 15 days with constant pumping over. Fermentation is then continued in oak barriques to obtain a very particular Passito wine, sweet yet dry and with a strong tannin content. The wine is further aged for 15 months in French oak barriques and for 8 months in the bottle prior to release.

Deep purple bordering on violet in colour, and having an intense aroma of very ripe forest fruits, blackberries and dried fruit. Sweet on the palate with strong hints of liquorice and dark chocolate. Sweet yet dry with strong tannins. Long finish.

This wine can be drunk now, but can mellow further to reach its peak, with aging potential of decades.

This dessert wine is the perfect accompaniment to Italian sweet desserts and tarts, creamy and hard cheese, after dinner espressos, and a good Havana cigar with a small bar of strong black chocolate.

Grape Variety: 100% Sagrantino.
Alcohol content: 15.5%
Serving temperature: 16/18 deg.C.
Price range: Eur40.

RATING: RS90 (Dessert wine).

Angus Beef Rib-Eye

Ham and Cheese stuffed beef parcels.

Prime Rib-eye.

Chateaubriand.

Italian Cheese Selection

Gelled-fruit flan for the Passito.

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A Taste of Chile:Vina' Errazuriz- Aconcagua Valley.

Chile's wine regions.

Chile is one of the leading wine producing countries from the New World wine producers, which has, just like the other main players from the New World viz: Australia, California - USA; Argentina, South Africa and New Zealand, has seen a major emergence on the wine world scene since the historic Paris Tasting of 1976.
 Chile was producing wines from its major wine regions of: Atacama, Coquimbo, Aconcagua, Valle Central (Central Valley), and Southern Chile, for many years dating to the 16th century when the Spanish conquistadors took the Vitis vinifera vines with them from Europe when they colonolized the region. It is now the 5th, wine exporting country in world.

The ERRAZURIZ Estate was founded in 1870, when Don Maximiano Errazuriz planted his first vineyards at Pomguehue in the Aconcagua Valley. This valley is ideal for growing premium wine grapes due to its climatic conditions of cool, rainy winters, hot dry summers and moist Pacific breezes, that is described by many as being halfway between the climates of California and France. Don Maximiano had from the very start used the finest clones from France to start and develop the estate over a number of generations into what it is today, as a leading world class vineyard and wine producing company.

Vina' Errazuriz produce several fine wines under different category-specified brands such as:
a. The Icon collection which consist of the finest wines, produced only in the best vintage years and consist of the: Chadwick; Don Maximiano; La Cumbre, Kai and Senna.
b. The Specialties collection which consist of nine wines;
c.  The Max Reserva which consist of seven varietals;
d. The Estate collection which is the entry level range and which consist of ten wine varietals.

Tasting and review session.

On the 31st of May and the 1st of June, 2011, I had the opportunity to taste and review some of these wines, during two wine tasting events, organised by the importer in Malta as these wines have just started to be imported in this country. I am herewith highlighting some of the reviews made and the ratings that I have awarded:

Don Maximiano Founder's Reseve 2005

1. Don Maximiano 2005:

The 2005 Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve is composed of a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Syrah. After fermentation, the wine is blended and is left to mature in new French Oak barriques for not less than 20 months.

Dark purple in colour, slightly opaque, with a nose of black fine chocolate, dark fruits - blackberries and blue berries and spices. In the  mouth this wine is full-bodied, elegant and full of fruit depicting a taste of toasted oak which gives it power and structure. Very well balanced with smooth tannins and pleasant acidity and finishing in a long enjoyable aftertaste of chocolate and blackberries in the mouth.
A very pleasant, premium wine, which compliments fine strong red meats, and mature cheese.
Ready to drink now, but could be aged for well over ten years in a good cellar.

Price range at enoteca or wine shop: EUR30.50
Alcohol content: 14.5% - Full-Bodied.
Serving temperature: 18 deg.C
RATING: RS93

Tasting samples.

2. KAI 2008:

This is another wine from Vina' Erazzuriz which comes under the Icon quality of this winemaker. It is another blended wine with a formulae of 86% Carmenere, 7% Petit Verdot and 6% Syrah,  aged for a specific number of months in French oak barriques until it is decided by the winemaker that it has reached its optimum maturity in the bottle prior to further aging in the bottle.

Very dark ruby in colour verging on purple, slightly hazey due to it being most probably unfiltered. On the nose this wine has a strong aroma that I could only describe as "Surf and Turf" when I first smelled it causing my olfactory senses to open up for more. A very distinct aroma of fresh sea air combined with earthy notes and flowers and a combination of ripe black fruit. On the palate the Carmenere content is strengthened by the Petit Verdot and the Syrah combination to give strong but pleasant tannins and power. Full-body full of power, structure and compelxity with a long pleasant  finish.
Ready to drink, but could also evolve further  for some 5 more years to reach its most elegant peak.
A wine that can be enjoyed with food or on its own.

FOOD PAIRING: Roast red meats, grilled prime beef steaks- T Bone, Fillet, Rib-Eye, tenderloin. Roast lamb; Lamb and beef Osso Buco; game; strong cheese.

Price range: Eur40.
Alcohol content: 14.5% - Full-Bodied.
Serving Temperature: 16 - 18 Deg. C.
RATING: RS93

Other wines that were tasted during this tasting were:

3. SENNA 1998

This particular vintage of this wine, which is composed of approximately 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Carmenere, 12% Merlot with the balanace composed of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, was tasted with the above wines on the 1st of June, 2011, and was considered to be bland and boring and could not be rated. When tasted in comparison with the Don Maximiano 2005 and the Kai 2008, the SENNA 1998 was rated well below both. In my opinion this 1998 vintage has either reached its peak some time ago and is now declining or otherwise we might have tasted a bad bottle which could have been affected by transportation from Chile to Malta. If  we're buying SENNA than I would advise purchasing more recent vintages. In fact I would welcome the opportunity to taste-test and analyse the 2006 and 2007 vintages.

4. ESTATE BRAND:

Two entry level wines which were the Estate Sauvignon Blanc and the the Estate Merlot were tasted. These two latter wines are entry level quality, but are very good as easy drinking wines, and to pair with pizza, pasta, light, home dinners, fish and red meats. Price range Eur9 for a bottle.

5. MAX RESERVA BRAND.

Two wines worthy of note from the Max Reserva branded wines, which were made available during the tasting session on the 31st of May, 2011, were the Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 and the Merlot, both oak aged for a period of twelve months, obtaining an alcohol content of 14%, smooth tannins and very good balance. These wines have been rated at RS88 for the Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 and RS86 for the Merlot, both rated in our Very Good wines category. They also offer good value for money at Eur15 per
bottle.