A Taste of Italy: TUSCANY (1).

Sangiovese grape variety cluster.

TUSCANY is the quintessential Italian wine region and is the home of three of Italy's most important wines: Chianti; Brunello di Monatlcino; and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It is also the home of the "Super Tuscans", a range of IGT non-traditional wines that are superlative in quality.

The Sangiovese grape variety is the most important red grape in this region, and apart from its use in the production of the above three, major, traditional wines, it is considered to be one of the greatest red grapes in Italy.

Since the 1970's and 80' when the major winemakers of Italy decided to produce wines of a much higher quality than in the past, and with the advent of the new Italian wine classification laws coming into play, not only were the traditional wines improved to world class calibre but this era gave birth to a high quality wine which was produced outside the norms and rules in an untraditional manner. These are the so called "Super Tuscans", which apart from being superlative wines, are in most cases quite expensive.

With so much excellent red wines being produced in Tuscany, with the exception of the region's famous and unique dessert wine, known as Vin Santo, white wine has been mostly an aftertought for both wine producers and wine drinkers. Therefore, although some very good and exciting white wine is being produced in small quantities from mainly Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and from Tuscany's traditional Vernacchia di San Giminiano grape varieties, we shall at this stage deal with examples of three of the top Tuscan red wines and a sample of the sweet Vin Santo.

Chianti Selections: Riserva, Classico and Chianti

To understand these wines we have to emphasise the fact that the Sangiovese grape varietal comes in different clones, and that the main ones differ enormously in flavour. The major Sangiovese clones are the "Sangioveto", which is one of the clones found in the production of the very best Chiantis. Chianti wine comes under names of Chianti Riserva, Chianti Classico and just Chianti, all boasting the coveted DOCG classification, although most vary in taste and quality depending on the blend, and the calibre of the Sangiovese grape vintage which must provide 85% or more of the wine blend.
For the production of Brunello di Montalcino we have the "Brunello" clone; and the "Prugnolo" clone is used in the production of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Trebiano and Malvasia vines have been planted over a period of many years for the production of the white and sweet dessert wine Vin Santo.

The four wines that we have under review in this first feature about Tuscany, are produced by:
CANTINE LEONARDO DA VINCI of Vinci, Florence, Tuscany:

1. DA VINCI CHIANTI RISERVA 2006 DOCG.

Da Vinci Chianti Riserva 2006.

This wine is an extremely supple wine, which in my opinion is less tannic than a Cabernet Sauvignon and more elegant than a Syrah or a Merlot wine. It contains excellent balance and good acidity that cleans the palate and makes one want to eat and enjoy food more. Hence, Tuscany's traditional seven course lunches and dinners, with selections of antipasti, primo piatti for various pasta and ravioli with ricotta and different sauces, secondi of bistecca ala fiorentina, grilled chicken, roast lamb; accompanied by selections of fresh vegetables; various dolci fatti in casa (desserts), fresh fruit, cheeses and coffee.

The Da Vinci Chianti Riserva is only produced if vintages are good and the Da Vinci Riserva 2006 is produced from pure "Sangioveto" Sangiovese grapes. This vintage has won the International Wine Challenge 2009 Bronze medal and the AWC Vienna 2009 Silver Medal. The 2004 Riserva which we have also taste- tested was also produced from 85% pure Sangiovese grapes, 10% Merlot and a 5%  blend of Syrah, Canaiolo and Colorino grapes.

The 2006 Da Vinci Chianti Riserva 2006 DOCG is ruby red in colour, full-bodied and with a distincly fruity bouquet of ripe cherries with hints of vanilla and cinamon. On the palate the wine is spicy yet mellow, with hints of chocolate, cherry and prunes and a little salt. The finish is lingering with balanced tannins and good acidity.

Alcohol content: 13% by volume.
Serving temperature: 18 deg. C.
Price range: Eur16.

RATING: RS92.

2. DA VINCI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2005 DOCG.

A taste of Brunello di Montalcino.

The dark one, or as it is more commonly known BRUNELLO, is Tuscany's most exalted wine. It is considered to be Tuscany's rarest and most expensive range of wines. It is made in Montalcino, hence the official name and classification of Brunello di Montalcino. This region is some two hours drive from the Chianti Classico region.

Brunello di Montalcino is based on the Sangiovese - Brunello clone- alone, and unlike Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, other grape varieties are not blended in with the Brunello Siangiovese grape varietal to layer in more flavour in weak vintage years. In good years, the brunello clone, yields a lavish full-bodied wine, with more structure, texture and complexity than Chianti, having splendid aromas and flavour.

The Da Vinci Brunello di Montalcino 2005 DOCG, is clear and purple red, with orange shades that are typical of all excellent red wines. It is produced from 100% pure "Brunello" Sangiovese grapes, handpicked and sourced from the small hillside in the commune of Montalcino. The wine takes a long, careful time to be produced with fermentation and maceration taking about 15 to 20 days with frequent pumping over. Fermentation then takes place in 100% stainless steels tanks under controlled conditions to ensure excellent colour and good tannins. Once fermented the wine is then aged in oak barrels for two years. After this period the wine spends three years aging in the bottle prior to its release.

The wine has a rich bouquet of chocolate, blackberry and cherrys,. On the palate it is full-bodied and well balanced with strong tannins and good acidity, with tastes of cinamom, spice and black pepper. It has a very elegant, long and persistent finish with an excellent aftertaste of fruit.

Alcohol content: 13% by volume.
Serving Temperature: 18 Deg. C.
Price range: Eur36.

RATING: RS93.

3. STO. IPPOLITO - TOSCANA 2006 IGT. (Super-Tuscan).

Da Vinci Super-Tuscan Sto. Ippolito 2006.

Super-Tuscan wines are classified as IGT wines, but nevertheless they are some of the very best and most expensive wines on the market. Choosing a Super-Tuscan is a matter of taste as the blends vary in accordance with the winemakers' own formula, and may and may not contain Sangiovese in the final blend. What one can say at this stage is, that the Super-Tuscan concept is no longer the sole preserve of the world famous Sassicaia or Tignanello, as other producers in Tuscany are producing and introducing various excellent wines which fall under this category. Super-Tuscans are made in an international style, generally dense and powerful, packed with tannins and good acidity and imparting that vanilla flavour which is eminated to the wine by new oak barriques in which the wine is matured.

The SANTO IPPOLITO-TOSCANA 2006 IGT Super-Tuscan is produced from a blend of 50% Syrah and 50% Merlot grapes, grown and harvested on the small hilly area of Sto. Ippolito near Florence.
Maceration takes place on the skins for some 20 days with frequent, gentle pumping over to maintain good colour, supple tannis and the rich fruit aromas and flavours that are characteristic to both grape varieties.
The wine is then matured for twelve months in 2.25 hectolitre barrique, after which it is racked into bottles without fining or filtration. The wine is aged for a further six months before release.

Purple-red in colour, with good depth and legs on the glass indicating a strong structure. On the nose one immediately senses  red fruit perfumes, with spicy oaky vanilla and black pepper, and toasted oak. On the palate it is savoury and soft at the same time with a strong, ripe and  fruity taste. Tannis, acidity and alcohol are perfectly balanced, giving a lenghty and elegant finish.

Alcohol content: 13%
Serving Temperature : 18 Deg.C
Price range: Eur20.

RATING: RS91.

FOOD PAIRING: The above three traditional wines of Tuscany pair well with roast lamb; roast beef and grilled prime steaks; bistecca fiorentina; game; mature Pecorino and Parmigiano Reggiano cheeses; dishes containing truffle; pasta with red and meat sauces. Strong and flavoured vegetable dishes. Typical and traditional Tuscany cuisine.

4. DA VINCI VINSANTO 2004 DOC.

The best known sweet wine in Italy is known as Vin Santo, or holy wine. It is so named as it has been drunk by catholic priests for centuries during the celebration of Holy Mass. Vin Santo in Tuscanny is the customary finale' to every decent meal in this region, and is served after dessert with an espresso coffee.

Da Vinci VinSanto Dessert wine.

The Da Vinci VinSanto - Bianco Dell' Empolese DOC 2004,  is produced from a blend of the best clusters of Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes which after carefull handpicking are dried for several days or weeks in the vinsantale to remove all water from the grapes to retain only the nectar prior to pressing, maturing and aging. The result is a superb, rich, amber coloured dessert wine.

This sweet, white, dessert wine is amber in colour, having an intense fragrance of honey and hazelnuts, and with rich, creamy and delicate flavours on the palate as diverse as a selection of honey-roasted nuts and sweet chile raisins. The taste is well rounded and balanced.

Alcohol content: 16.5% by volume.
Price range: Eur28
Food pairing: Desserts and after dinner coffee, espressos.

RATING: RS90.

A taste of Tuscan wines for the enthusiast and afficionado.