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Monday, January 3, 2011

A Taste of Malta: The Blends - Part 1.

Over the last few weeks, I have been very busy sorting out the various wines produced by the main winemakers in Malta. There are at present some classy and very good wines on the market, produced under the Malta Wine Classification Laws of Malta, which came into effect in 2007, but it was decided to review and rate only the top, premium wines released by each winemaker and then only the ones that have been rated highly.
It was further decided that rather than reviewing the wines from each producer individually, it was much better to review the wines in a comparative method in accordance with their grape variety, composition or blend in comparison with all producers.

The Malta Blends - Classic Wine Blends.
For the first review under the title "A Taste of Malta", I am going to cover The Malta Blends, in two parts.

A "Blend" is a wine composed and produced from different grape varieties, blended in accordance with the winemaker's own formula and recipe' to produce in most cases, superior, individual wines that are in some cases the winemaker's talisman or icon wine. Blends are designed and formulated to add more complexity to the flavour and texture of a wine like nothing else in the winemaker's stable or on the market.

In Tuscany,  the so-called "Super Tuscans" started to be produced in the 1970's when Italian winemakers decided to raise the standard and quality of their wines, and created a new style and very exciting red wine outside the DOCG laws. And so the famous Sassicaia and later the Tignanello were born. These wines were made from grape varieties of the winemakers' own choosing, who blended a selection of two, three or more of the following grape varietals:
Cabernet Sauvignon; Merlot; Cabernet Franc; Sangiovese; Syrah; Petit Verdot.
Notwithstanding this, a Super-Tuscan can be prettry much anything. It can take the form of a mono-varietal, or any blend of varietals from the above grape varieties. These wines are classified as IGT wines as they are not bound by any rigid production traditions or rules.


In France, the Bordeaux Blends were already in existence for many years and are still very popular and well sought after to this day. The only grapes that are allowed for use in a French wine blend to be labeled Bordeaux are:
Cabernet Sauvignon; Merlot; Cabernet Franc; Malbec; Petit Verdot; Carmenere. 
Wine vintners generally use or choose two to three different grape varieties from the approved "Bordeaux" list, but rarely if ever, use all six grape varieties in one resulting wine. These wines are of course controlled by the exacting French wine appellation laws and boast the Apellation d'Origine Controlee AOC appellation.

Many winemakers in all the major wine producing countries, both in the "Old World" as well as in the "New World" wine producing countries and regions, have also opted to produce their own individual versions of the "Super Tuscans" or "Bordeaux Blends", or to put it mildly their own individual blends, by formulating wine blends from a selection of both the Tuscan grape varieties, as well as the Bordeaux varieties, as well as from indegenious grape varieties grown in their specific country and region, and marketed under different brand names.
Blended wines have been around for hundred of years, well before these two styles, and if one has to take an example Chateauneuf-du-Pape in some form or other has been around since the time of Pope John XXII, circa 1316 - 1334.

MALTA is no exception to this trend, and since the introduction of the wine classification laws in 2007, wine estates have not only grown in the cultivation of the international grape varieties, but they were constrained to produce lower yields with better cultivation of the vines, efficient irrigation and drainage systems, and the utilization of the best clones planted in sun facing regions on the Island. This resulted in the production and release of some fine wines, year-in year-out, which do the winemakers proud.

For the purpose of this feature, I have selected some of the very best, premium blends from various winemakers in Malta, which have been formulated and judiciously blended by each individual winemaker in accordance with his own preference, and which we are reviewing and rating hereunder.

In part 1 of this topic we shall be reviewing four of these wine blends under the blend headings:
The Malta Blends -Rated & Awarded RS90 points
for excellence of quality.

A. MERLOT/CABERNET SAUVIGNON BLEND.

A classic varietal combination in the world of wine, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are two of the most popular red wine varieties throughout the world. When blended together, they form a classic combination that is identified by breeding and distinction. Ideal blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is about 70% of the former and some 30% of the latter. Blend composition may vary from one producer to another as there are no hard or set rules.
This blend produces a full-bodied red wine, having a deep black colour, with a bouquet of chocolate, plums and violets. On the palate this combination produce flavours of black currant and dark chocolate, pepper and plums. The wine has strong tannins which are well balanced with natural acidity and alcohol. The finish in these wines is lingering and full of fruit.

Two wines which have the above characteristics from the Malta blends are the:

1. LAURENTI - MERLOT/ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 MALTA DOK.
    Producer: Camilleri Wines Ltd - Malta.
    Alcohol content: 13% - FULL-BODIED.
    After fermentation on the skins, and malolactic fermentation is achieved the wine is blended and  transferred to mature for fourteen months in new French oak barriques thus aquiring a typical vanilla flavour. The wine is then bottled and left to age in the bottle for various months prior to release.
This wine can be aged for a number of years to evolve and develop further.
Wine boutique or wine shop price: Eur 10.

RATING: RS90

2. MERIDIANA MELQART 2006 & MERIDIANA MELQART 2007 MALTA DOK
    MERLOT/CABERNET SAUVIGNON.
    Winemaker: Meridiana Wine Estate - Ta' Qali, Malta.
     Alcohol Content: 12% - Medium-bodied.
This wine is produced from a careful blending of these two grape varieties, and after fermentation under temperature controlled conditions, and maturation in French oak barriques for several months, the wine is bottled and left to age in the estate's cellars for more months to develop further. The wine is unfiltered and unrefined to retain its full fruit flavour.
Consumer price - wineshop/boutique/enoteca: Eur14.

RATING:  RS90.

B. CABERNET SAUVIGNON/ SYRAH BLEND.

This blend produces wines that are dark, ruby red in colour, with impressive aromas of licorice, pepper and black currant and berries. Full-bodied with strong tannins, good acidity, reserved and balanced. The finish of these wines is long and lingering as befits these two strong grape varieties.

The two wines that we have selected to represent this category in the Malta blends category are the:

1. PIANOFORTE CABERNET/ SYRAH 2007 MALTA DOK SUPERIOR.
   Winemaker: Camilleri Wines - Malta.
    Alcohol content: 12.5% - Full-bodied.
The resulting wine has a beautiful balance between fruit, oak, tannins and completes in an elegant finish.
Matured in oak barriques for twelve months and aged in the bottle until released in 2010.

Available in selected restaurants only - Price range: Eur15 to Eur20 depending on restaurant.

RATING: RS90.

2. GRAND VIN DE HAUTEVILLE 2009 -SHIRAZ/CABERNET MALTA DOK SUPERIOR.
     Winemaker: Emm. Delicata & Sons Ltd - Malta.
     Alcohol content: 13.5% - Full-bodied.
The rich luscious fruit of the Shiraz combines well with the supple tannins and elegant structure of the Cabernet Sauvignon cultivated in small, family boutique estates, to produce a fine wine with good fruit on both the nose and on the palate.

Wineshop/boutique/enoteca price range: Eur9.

RATING: RS90.

Given their youth, it is recommended that these wines are opened at least one hour prior to drinking and preferably decanted for a more elegant and mellow taste in the mouth.

The four wines have been taste-tested in comparison with each other:  on opening; after three hours of opening; after decanting; and with food. The differences in taste vary but the quality and thus the final rating match up nicely to warrant an RS90 consumer rating.

Food pairings with these four Classic Malta Blends are:     Red meats-roast beef; roast lamb; grilled prime beef steaks; bistecca alla Fiorentina; pasta with rabbit sauce or rich red sauce; rabbit stew; fried rabbit in olive oil and garlic; fresh tuna; fresh salmon; strong mature cheeses; game and poultry; turkey drumsticks or whole thigh; roast lamb shanks.
Part two of "A Taste of Malta:The Blends" will be featured shortly.

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