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Monday, September 12, 2011

The International Wine Appellations and Classifications.

A Famous French Appellation.
In the previous feature I highlighted, in concise form,  the changes to the French wine appellations which came in force in 2009. France has since 1855 been the world's leader in controlling the quality of the country's wine production, so how do the other wine producers, Old World, as well as New World countries compare or try to emulate France in this sphere?

The following is a description of the appellations of several countries which I'm sure will be of interest to every wine afficionado:

France has been covered in the previous feature, so we will not dwell on it any further here.

QbA Classification Germany.
GERMANY -  In Germany quality is graded and classified according to the ripeness of the grapes at harvest and appellations are issued by the German authorities as follows, (lowest grade first):

Deutscher Tafelwein - Medium-dry Table wine.

Deutsher Tafelwein Landwein - Dry or semi-dry regional country wine.

Quatlitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete QbA - quality wines from one of the thirteen recognised and designated, grape growing, quality regions of Germany, which are: Ahr, Mittelrhein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Rheingau, Nahe, Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Franken, Hessiche Bergstrasse, Wuttemberg, Baden, Saale/Unstrut and Sachsen. To be classified QbA these wines must conform with regional appellation laws and are rigorously tested for compliance and issued with an AP number. These laws ensure that the wine is from one specific wine-growing region, is mde from approved grape varieties which have reached sufficient ripeness for quality wine. As the sugar in most grapes in these regions is low, chaptalization (the addig of sugar during fermentation) is allowed to raise the alcohol level to the required level..

Qualitatswein mit Pradikat QmP - this is issued to the finest quality wines that have special attributes representing graduating ripeness levels which are in ascending order: kabinette, Spatlese'. Ausles, Beerenauslese (BA), Eiswein, Trockenbeerernauslese (TBA).

Two new classifications of dry wines, Classic and Selection, were established in 2000. Winemakers can produce wines under these classifications in all the thirteen wine-grape growing regions of Germany, provided the wines are above average in quality, harmoniously dry in taste, and made fom a traditional German grape variety - Riesling, Silvaner, Rivaner, Burgunder varieties.

AUSTRIA - operates the same system as Germany with an extra classification known as Ausbruch for rich, sweet wines.

LIP - Penfolds Australia.
AUSTRALIA - In 1990 Australia introduced a programme to promote the integrity of the information that is stated on the label. This programme is called Label Integrity Programme LIP. Information on the label have to denote vintage, grape variety and geographical indication. Those wineries registered in this programme are continuosly monitored by LIP inspectors who would dictate and issue the use of the classification under these conditions: If the geographical and wine varietal are indicated on the label, the grape variety (from which the wine is made) should be at least 85% of that particular grape, and the grape quantity used must be at least 85% sourced and grown in the region indicated.  With regard to the vintage year, also 85% at least, of the grape variety used, must have been harvested in the vintage year indicated.
The back label, front, neck and cap have equal status under Australian wine law, so information may appear on either the front or the back label. The volume of the bottle must appear on the front label.

As such this programme does not in anyway guarantee or stipulate quality requirements leading to, or of, the finished product, as this is left to individual winemakers to decide upon.

Wine of Origin South Africa.
SOUTH AFRICA -  The quality designation for South African wine is Wine of Origin, indicating the name of the region. If a vintage year is printed on the label, the wine must be produced from at least 75% of grapes harvested in the year labeled; If a grape variety is mentioned it must also be produced from at least 75% of grapes of that varietal. The Wine of Origin designation appears as a seal on the side of the neck of the bottle, and it certifies that any information given on the label relating to vintage, origin or grape variety is correct, but as in the case of Australia is not necessarily an indication of quality.
DOC Italian Label.

ITALY - Italian wine laws were commenced in 1963 with the introduction of the DOC Denominazione di Origine Controllata. In 1980 the DOCG Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita was introduced and awarded to selected regions which were producing wines of exceptional quality and renown.
The Chianti Classico Seal.
One has to note here, that the word "Garantita" in the DOCG classification, might seem to imply that the quality of the wine is guaranteed. It is not. The flaw in this system is the fact that these denominations are applied to entire regions in which the greatest wine in that region and the most ordinary and low quality get to say they are DOCG. For example all wines under the Chianti label are DOCG's but one can find superlative Chianti (Riserva, Classico and even just Chianti), but then again one can buy a bottle of the most plebeian Chianti in a supermarket for just Eur2.80 which come with the DOCG label.
Super-Tuscan IGT.
In 1992, a third classification, that known as IGT or Indicazione Geografica Tipica was created. Although this classification is supposed to be at the lower base of the Italian classification pyramid, one can find some great wines under this category, which although they do not conform to the DOC or DOCG rules, one can find some of Italy's greatest wines; Tignanello, Sassicaia, Solaia are three of the most well known, but there are various other "Super Tuscan" IGT wines that is a privilege to own and drink.
There are at present 41 regions which hold the DOCG classification, 350 regions hold the DOC classification, and some 130 whose wines are classified under the IGT system.
Under each and every classification, wine quality is the prerogative and choice of each individual winemaker.

To illustrate this I am producing here the DOCG classified, wine making, provinces of Italy, indicating the number of wines/regions within them that hold this classification:

Piedmont 12: Asti Spumanti; Barbera D'Asti; Barbera Del Monferrato Superiore; Barbaresco; Barolo; Brachetto d'Acqui; Gattinara; Gavi or Cortese di Gavi; Ghemme; Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore; Roero; Dolcetto di Ovada.

Tuscany 7: Brunello di Montalcino; Carnignano Rosso; Chianti (8 sub regions); Chianti Classico; Morrellino di Scansano; Vernaccia di San Gimignano; Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Veneto 4: Bardolino Superiore; Recioto di Gambellara; Recioto di Soave; Soave Superiore.

Abruzzo 1: Montepulciano d'Abr4uzzo Coline Teramane.
Campania 3: Fiano di Avellino; Greco di Tufp; Taurasi.
DOCG and IGT Wines from Campania.
Emilia-Romagna 1: Albana di Romagna.
Fruili-Venezia Giulia 2: Ramandolo; Colli Orientale del Friuli Picolit.
Lazio 1: Casanese del Piglio.

Lombardia 4: Franciacorta; Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico; Svorzato di Valtellina; Valtellina Superiore.

Marche 2: Conero; Vernaccia di Serrapetrona.
Sardinia 1: Vermentino di Gallura.
Sicilia 1: Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
Umbria 2: Montefalco Sagrantino; Torgiano Riserva.
California Wine Label -AVA

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA - The American Viticulture Area AVA is the American version of the French AOC system. The word "Appellation" or "classification" will not appear anywhere on the bottle. There will be the name of the region of grape harvest and production, for example: California (State) or Sonoma or Napa Valley, or maybe something more specific. If the region or viticulure area is on the label, then 85% of the grapes in that wine must have come from that area. A vineyard designated wine must contain not less than 95% of the grapes harvested from that vineyard. Vineyard names must be used together with the county or AVA names.
Wine laws in the USA are administered by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms

Rioja DOC wine label.
SPAIN - Certifies the origin of the grape in a wine under the classification Denominacion de Origen DO which were enacted in 1932 and revised in 1970 and is in a way similar to the French AOC now AOP laws. These laws define and protect wines from specific geographic areas.. This classification is administered by the Instituto Nacional de Denominaciones de Origen INDO, under the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture. This system administers a broad range of agricultural products ranging from wine, olive oil cured hams and cheeses.
There are fiftyfour DO's or officially recognized and geagraphically defined wine regions in Spain. Rioja has a special classification of Denominacion de Origen Calificada DOC (Qualified Denomination of Origin)

DOK and DOKS wines of Malta.
MALTA - had been toying and preparing legislation to control the production of wine since 2001, but eventually these laws were enacted and came into being in 2007, through LEGAL NOTICE 416 of 2007, amended by Legal Notice 168 of 2011. The DOK Wines Production Protocols (SL436.07). Subsidiary Legislation 436.07 was passed in 2007 and the D.O.K. WINES PRODUCTION PROTOCOLS REGULATIONS came into being on the 1st of May, of that year.
Wine production quality in Malta took a gigantic leap forward through these regulations, which control everything in winemaking from the vineyard to the bottle.
The classifications of note are the DOK Denominazzjoni Originali Kontrollata;
DOK-S Denominazzjoini Originali Kontrollata-Superjuri (the S denotes a higher alcohol content over 12%), and the IGT Indikazzjoni Geografica Tipika.
As with all other appellations and classifications of all other countries, final wine quality rests on the winemakers' style and production methods, but one is assured that grape varieties used in wine, bearing these classification notation on the label, are sourced from approved vineyards in Malta or Gozo, which have been cultivated and harvested by vignerons, under controlled conditions by the Ministry of Agriculture.
Wine analyses and tests, prior to approval and the award of the clasification labels are analysed and tested in laboratories in both Malta and in Siena, Italy.

It is also important to note that all winemaking countries produce vast quantities of VdT's Vino di Tavola, Table wines, or as they might be known in the USA jug wines. These wines do not normally fall under the appellation laws and are in the main inferior in quality.

It is also pertinent to note, that wine quality varies within the same country, or from country to country, for wines with the same classification, and a higher appellation does not guarantee that they are as a matter of fact, better than top class wines that are classified under a lower appellation.
E.G. several IGT classified Super Tuscans, or French super garage wines (Vins du garage) produced by garagistes , etc are amongst the best wines for quality in the world.


Tignanello IGT.
Grand Cru
Sassicaia IGT.

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